2005 Fleetwood - Alumitite Roof Rebuild - Rack Track Leaks

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by maxstead, Mar 9, 2016.

  1. bols2Dawall

    bols2Dawall S.W. Ontario

    May 19, 2010
    Several years ago I ran 2 layers of black 1" wide Eternabond along the very tops of my rails to "close" them off . It's still holding up well , looks good and stopped leaks . I also ran a bead of caulk along the rails where they meet the roof .
  2. Fish-art

    Fish-art New Member

    May 22, 2018
    How many of you have a/c units and AlumiTite? It looks like the previous owner tried sealing the rails but I still have a pretty slow leak. I was going to change out the ac gasket first but after reading this post the rails are an easier fix for me and it seems like a more common issue.
  3. bols2Dawall

    bols2Dawall S.W. Ontario

    May 19, 2010
    I'd highly suggest you do both
    Fish-art likes this.
  4. Jake Smith

    Jake Smith New Member

    Jun 5, 2018
    [​IMG] Same project just a year older
  5. VF84PC

    VF84PC New Member

    May 15, 2017
    My camper is a 2004 Redwood high wall I am wondering how much that roof weighs? How many guys and cases of Beer will I need to help me remove it? The rear of the roof where the leak was has sunk so I need to do it this year (Summer/Fall) Will four be ok?
  6. bols2Dawall

    bols2Dawall S.W. Ontario

    May 19, 2010
    Yep , 4 of each should do it :)
    JPBar likes this.
  7. JPBar

    JPBar Well-Known Member

    Sep 22, 2016
    Agree ^^^^
  8. AJ Gronk

    AJ Gronk New Member

    Jul 4, 2018
    Wyoming PA
    I just removed my rails on my 2005 Bayside and installed Enternabond tape. I’m not putting rails back on because I don’t use them And I believe they act as gutters for water to find it’s way in no matter how you seal them. I don’t think they hold roof together. I’m hoping this stops leaking to buy some time for a roof rebuild.

    Attached Files:

  9. dbsoccer

    dbsoccer New Member

    Aug 5, 2018
    I have a 1996 Sun Valley that had a bad roof design originally and was upgraded to, what I am assuming from reading this thread, is an Alumitite roof. I has two black rails that were holding Yakima bike racks. The racks were never used. During our outing this past weekend my wife noticed mildew on the underside of the roof and a small place where the white roof liner is starting to bubble. After I got it home it didn't take long to find the leak. The rail was glued on originally but had some loose over almost the entire length of one rail. It's a wonder it didn't some flying off while driving down the highway. And it appears the adhesive that was to hold the rail in place was being asked to serve a dual purpose: holding the rail on the roof and sealing the seam between two pieces of roof sheathing. Seems like they could have found a better design. But moving on......

    Since I don't intend on using the rails or the bike racks, what is my best option? AJ Gronk (just above) has pulled his rails off and taped the seams with Enternbond tape. Is this a permanent solution or are there other options? I'm not familiar with Enternabond tape. And what about the underside of the roof? I do have some minor bubbling in a relatively small area. The mildew is a bigger concern. The curtains will be replaced for several reasons one of which is the mildew.

    Thanks for any help you can provide.
  10. maxstead

    maxstead New Member

    Feb 28, 2016
    Love the eternabond method - i just pulled my entire roof apart again and although my rails are no longer leaking, the eternabond method will work fine. I used that stuff in the corners under the plastic corner caps to seal the gar that is under there - was a piece of duct tape from factory, and boy was it hard to get off. @Gronk - nice clean job prior to eternabond - I had to hit mine with a wire wheel - then I did a thin epoxy coat, and then caulk, rails, screws, and more caulk. I found that they still leaked, so ended up filling them up (literally) with black RV caulk. They don't leak now :) LOL - only thing is that I need to continue to watch the edges for caulk crack. Yours will be perfect.

    Anyway, my roof is now back apart and yes, it only took 4 of us to lift and flip. I setup 4 sawhorses on the garage floor that I spaced evenly apart. Horses were built with 8' lumber. I then placed 3 2x12x12 on top of them to support the middle of the roof from sag - all three boards went between the roof rails. Then I added 2 2x4x12 on the outside length to support the roof - so all in all, like a nice solid table to work on.

    Issue with mine was that the wood I used was that crappy masonite - white one side - what a mistake. Also used styrofoam safe contact cement - didn't hold worth crap. Ended up with roof sag after first year, and then with the leaking roof rails that I had already "fixed", the entire roof was sagging inside.

    Roof is now stripped down again - all the mouldings I replaced to maintain contour are still in great shape, so all I needed to do was pull the old and put in new.......easier this time.

    I will use FRP this time - no more wood ;-)

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