2006 Fleetwood Niagara - Bunk End Repair (inside roof)

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by ricko, Dec 19, 2017.

  1. ricko

    ricko Member

    444
    12
    Apr 6, 2009
    Nashville, TN
    I have a 2006 Fleetwood Niagara where the tent rail has pulled out of the roof on the rear bunk end. This is the second time it has occurred, last time I pulled all the rusty screws, filled the holes with gorilla glue, then re-attached using the old screws and some new. I took care of the roof leak issues that allowed moisture into the bunk end on another project.

    Knowing that I have a little rot there, It's probably time to re-layer that area - I've done a few searches but would like to bounce my repair idea off you guys... From those searches it appears that section is a sandwich of aluminum (outside) adhered to 3/4" or so of foam, adhered to a layer of luan (the rotted part).

    Does this approach appear sound?:

    • measure the location of the rail(s), take lots of photos
    • remove the rails
    • remove the pieces and as many remnants of the luan layer
    • fabricate a tight fitting 1/8, 3/16 or 1/4" plywood section to place over the removed luan
    • use oil based enamel to paint/seal the plywood
    • adhere the plywood section over the foam insulation using construction adhesive (is Locktite or Gorilla Construction adhesive still preferred)
    • clamp the living snot out of this new sandwich
    • using measurements from above, relocate the rails, attach with stainless steel screws
    • put the tenting back in the rail
    • Go Camp!

    From your long term experience - is construction adhesive still preferred or some of the poly based adhesives?

    Other words of wisdom?

    Thanks

    Ricko
     
  2. JiffyPopJunkie

    JiffyPopJunkie Active Member

    276
    72
    Jun 5, 2014
    LG Region NY
    This was years ago but I changed mine out with 1/8" aluminum diamond plate. Went to a local metal shop and had them cut it up for me. It wasnt the cheapest but it will never ever rot again
     

    Attached Files:

  3. ricko

    ricko Member

    444
    12
    Apr 6, 2009
    Nashville, TN
    NICE! and a great idea - did you provide measurements? a template?

    Was this in the $100 ballpark, $200 ballpark or ?
     
  4. bols2Dawall

    bols2Dawall S.W. Ontario

    1,358
    96
    May 19, 2010
    Great idea , would 1/8" flat aluminum stock painted work too ?
     
  5. JiffyPopJunkie

    JiffyPopJunkie Active Member

    276
    72
    Jun 5, 2014
    LG Region NY
    I think it was around $70 for the both of them. I used the same measurement from the rotted board. I got them home and it fit right in. Flat aluminum will work just fine but I went with diamond plate to go with the rest of the evolution look.
    Over the summer i noticed my sideboards are a little compromised so i just might be doing that this spring.
     
  6. VF84PC

    VF84PC New Member

    9
    2
    May 15, 2017
    I have the same issue on my Redwood is there any wood framing under the aluitight roof? Is the diamond plate only attached by Adhesive?
     
  7. JiffyPopJunkie

    JiffyPopJunkie Active Member

    276
    72
    Jun 5, 2014
    LG Region NY
    No framing. The sideboard, starting from the inside is 1/4" lauan, a super thin strip of sheet metal that the screws for the canvas rail go into, styrofoam and then the outer shell.
    When i installed mine, it was screwed to the inside top rail that connects the top and side, the bottom channel and thw two small angle brackets on each side. I left the foam as is, just cleaned it up.
     
  8. Raycfe

    Raycfe Waterford Ct.

    13,815
    895
    Oct 3, 2007
    Waterford, Ct
    I kind of liking the adding of a mounting board, alumiumn, etc. You can even add some some carriage bolts from the outside and the metal or hardwood wouldn't go anywhere.
     

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