Battery issues

Discussion in 'Power - Site Power/Batteries/Generators/Solar' started by rmckenna, Sep 11, 2017.

  1. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

    18
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    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
    I bought a 98 coleman grandview SP camper and it has a new RV deep cycle battery that the previous owner bought. All my lights work when the camper is plugged into 120 volts, but when I unplug it from the 120 volt source I have no lights or power at all in the camper. Am I missing a switch somewhere on this camper that changes it to 12 volts? I would assume that it would run on 12 volts automatically until it is plugged into 120 volts.
     
  2. Fless

    Fless Active Member

    What's the converter's make and model? Or upload a picture. Some of the older converters have a switch on the front panel to change from the 120v AC source to the 12v DC battery source, but newer ones switch automatically.

    If it's an auto-switching converter, it may not be getting any 12v DC from the battery, or the battery might be discharged, or a fuse could be blown, etc. Has the health of the battery been checked?
    _
     
  3. Antipodes

    Antipodes Call me Paul

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    Jan 28, 2015
    Christchurch, New Zealand
    Just to be clear.
    When operating of the battery, the 120V sockets will not work.
    You probably knew that, but your message was not clear if you thought they had power.
     
  4. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

    18
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    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
    It is a Magnetek 6620 Power Converter. I am assuming that it is auto switching as it has two breakers and no other switch. I did check the four 15 amp fuses and they all looked good. I can't seem to be able to upload a photo.
     
  5. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

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    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
    Yes, I am aware of that but thanks for checking.
     
  6. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

    18
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    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
    I also hooked up my battery pack to the battery just to make sure that the battery had adequate power and still nothing
     
  7. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

    18
    0
    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
     

    Attached Files:

  8. speckhunter80

    speckhunter80 Active Member

    When you check the voltage of the battery what does your voltmeter/multimeter read? Do you have a 3way switch on the front of the electrical center to switch from Converter to battery?
     
  9. jmkay1

    jmkay1 2004 Fleetwood/Coleman Utah

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    Oct 10, 2013
    Northern Virginia
    I second checking the battery to see if it is charged. If the battery wasn't disconnected from the camper when you got it, it may be dead. There is a parasitic power draw that could kill a battery in about a week. Get a multimeter and check its voltage. If your battery is charged then I would check the wires from the battery to the camper. I discovered I had a short due to the battery harness which prevented power getting to the camper.
     
  10. mpking

    mpking Active Member

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    Jun 17, 2014
    Raynham, MA
    There is usually two more fuses that get overlooked. One is up by the battery. This should be there, and might be blown. The second that some converters have a battery reversal fuse, which is on the converter, but is not usually obvious. Not every converter has that.

    One other thing. Do you have the battery connected correctly? RV's don't use the Red/Black that people are used to. It's very common to reverse the leads.
     
  11. roybraddy

    roybraddy Active Member

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    Mar 23, 2016
    King George, Virginia
    What I do for quick checks around the battery is to measure the battery terminals with a multimeter with the shore power connections OFF. If the the battery is fully charged it will read around 12.6-7 VDC.

    Leaving the multimeter still connected to the battery terminals then I will turn on the shore power. The DC voltage should jump to 13.6VDC or what ever smart mode my DC Converter is in (13.2VDC-13.6VDC.14.4VDC)

    If I do not see an increase in DC volts then this tells me there is an disconnect between the Battery and the 12VDC Distribution Panel. The DC CONVERTER feeds the same point of the 12VDC Distribution Panel as the Battery does.

    The disconnect can be Blown REVERSE POLARITY fuses, Bad connections between the DC OUTPUT leads of the DC Converter or Battery cable terminals - Blown fuse between the battery terminal and the 12VDC Power Distribution panel usually found IN-LINE just inches away from the battery terminal cables...

    Different trailers are wired differently but the basic concept for running from 120VAC an/or 12V battery is shown in this 30A Power Configuration pictorial...

    [​IMG]

    Roy Ken
    [​IMG]
     
  12. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

    18
    0
    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
    I unplugged the 120 volt source and checked the battery and it has 12.36 volts. I checked the wires on the running up the roof support in the rear of the camper and get 11.86 volts. I do get power to the water pump off the battery, just no lights on the roof of the camper. The roof lights work fine when plugged into 120 volts.
     
  13. Douggro

    Douggro Active Member

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    Jul 26, 2017
    Seattle, WA
    By chance, are the ceiling lights LED bulbs? Some older LED's won't light below a certain voltage. I'd think that 11.8v would be enough, but you never know.
     
  14. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

    18
    0
    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
    I just checked the battery again and now its at 11.86 volts. I have a charger hooked up to it and will let it fully charge before checking again. It seems weird that it will run the water pump off the battery and not the lights. I changed all the ceiling lights to LED also a few moths back.
     
  15. Douggro

    Douggro Active Member

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    Jul 26, 2017
    Seattle, WA
    See my previous post. :) Get the battery charged and check again. Do you happen to remember the type/brand of LED bulbs that you used and where you purchased them?
     
  16. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

    18
    0
    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
    Found the problem. After reading your post I decided to change one of the ceiling lights back to one of the old bulbs and unplugged the 120 volt source and the light worked on the old bulb side only. These are new LED light bulbs, but they must require more than 12 volts to power up. Thanks for your help.
     
  17. rmckenna

    rmckenna New Member

    18
    0
    Aug 20, 2016
    Farmingdale, Maine
    My battery wiring does not have a fuse and looks to be the original. should these have a inline fuse?
     

    Attached Files:

  18. Dback2k4

    Dback2k4 Member

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    Jul 16, 2017
    Iowa
    I replaced a few of my lights with LEDs and found that certain types also would not work on battery power.
     
  19. Douggro

    Douggro Active Member

    243
    47
    Jul 26, 2017
    Seattle, WA
    Glad that it was a simple problem.
    Ideally, yes. It will protect the battery if you develop a short on the positive lead from the battery to the converter.
     
  20. roybraddy

    roybraddy Active Member

    964
    158
    Mar 23, 2016
    King George, Virginia
    Its hard to tell from your photo but the BLACK WIRE (POS +12VDC ) coming from your battery terminal marked (POS or +) should have an INLINE FUSE HOLDER with one of those ATM TYPE fuses. There is a possible fuse connection at the bottom center of your photo. Check it and see if it has a ATM FUSE like this inside it. This will be a high amps fuse rated higher that the DC AMPS available from your DC Converter unit.
    [​IMG]

    The purpose of this fuse it to blow in the event the battery cable between the battery terminal and 12VDC Power Distribution point gets shorted to frame ground somehow. This will keep the smaller DC Cable from possibly catching fire or Battery exploding as the battery is capable of generating alot over 100AMPS CURRENT if shorted to ground for a few minute.

    Roy Ken
    [​IMG]
     

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