Can't get Dometic 2193 to work at all

Discussion in 'Refrigerators and Coolers' started by Tribalchief, Jun 16, 2018.

  1. Tribalchief

    Tribalchief New Member

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    Jun 16, 2018
    I am a very handy person and have done many plumbing and electrical repairs and upgrades over the years but I cannot wrap my head around why I can't get this dometic refrigerator to work on either gas, a.c. or battery. First, let me give everyone some background on this fridge.

    We recently acquired our 1997 Viking pop up model 2490 because it can sleep up to 9 people. The fridge functioned on a.c. and seemed to the touch that it was pretty cold. I was told by the seller that the gas mode of the fridge didnt work. Upon closer examination I noticed that the gas valve was stuck in the high position and wouldn't depress at all. That immediately told me that even if there was another reason why the gas wasn't working, that I needed to replace the valve because I certainly didn't want gas leaking while we were cooking on the stove (which works fine in both locations).

    So, after cutting off my left arm and giving it to the company that sold me the new valve, I replaced it. (Picture attached)

    After doing so, not only will the gas NOT flow to the burner after many many attempts to light, but now I can't get the fridge to work on a.c. anymore.

    One point I need make though, when the fridge was working on a.c., I noticed a small buzzing sound (electrical i guess) coming from the direction of the back of the fridge. It was intermittent. I never located the source of the sound but after replacing the valve, the sound has not returned and the fridge no longer works. Was the sound a failing part that finally went kaput? I dont know. Here is what i have already done to try to isolate the problem:

    1. Cleaned the burner and tube with compressed air. ( orifice was in very good condition and the hole was visible when I held it up to the light)
    2. Checked the ohms on the a.c. and dc switches and the switches appear to be ok
    3. Checked the a.c. and dc heaters and both ohms check out and don't have a broken connection.
    4. Checked the outlet in the back that you plug the fridge into and it has power. I tried running it through that outlet as well as plugging the fridge directly into a power source. Neither work.
    5. Replaced piezo igniter. Visual inspection shows it is working just fine. I've tried lighting with it as well as a long lighter.
    6. Checked fuse on dc side near back of fridge. Ok
    7. Checked fuse near battery. Ok
    8. Checked circuit box and fuses there. Ok


    This is a 20 yr old fridge and does not have any computer board. There are no round glass fuses anywhere that I can find.

    I do have one confession:
    I am waiting for some type of humming sound coming from the fridge to tell me it is operating because there is no light or other indicator to tell me if it's actually on. I hear nothing. How do I validate it is operating?

    ANY positive thoughts on what I've shared, I'd really appreciate it. I just don't want to have to give my other arm for another part that only cost $5 to make. Thanks.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. neighbormike

    neighbormike Well-Known Member

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    Not sure about the gas issue, but on 110ac you shouldn't hear anything... these refrigerators take hours to actually cool....
     
  3. Tribalchief

    Tribalchief New Member

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    Jun 16, 2018
    Thanks Mike. Are you saying that if I plug it in, I won't know if it's working for several hours? JUST put a thermometer in it and see if the temp drops?
     
  4. nineoaks2004

    nineoaks2004 Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday

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    Graceville, Florida
    I always start mine several days in advance, also I bought a wireless thermometer that gives an inside and an outside reading, (about 10.00) I place the sender into the reefer and it gives me the reading of the reefer with no wires etc. I also get the reading of the inside of the unit on the non-wireless side. Do you have LP to the stove? If you have it there you should have gas to the reefer. Sometimes it takes awhile to get air out of the lines. And therefore you have to hold the pilot button down longer, There should be no noise coming from the reefer it has no moving parts. You might have a bad thermocouple too, it has to work for the gas valve to open.
     
    neighbormike likes this.
  5. Toedtoes

    Toedtoes Well-Known Member

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    For the gas part, you may need to replace the thermocouple. Not expensive and easy to do.
     
  6. Toedtoes

    Toedtoes Well-Known Member

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    For the electrical, I'd leave it on overnight and see if the blades are cold. With nothing in it, it is hard to tell if it is cooling by touching the walls or shelves. Feeling the blades will tell you easily.
     
  7. Tribalchief

    Tribalchief New Member

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    Jun 16, 2018
    I understand about the thermocoupler. Thank you. How do you test to find out if the thermocoupler is bad?
     
  8. nineoaks2004

    nineoaks2004 Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday

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    Oct 15, 2006
    Graceville, Florida
  9. Tribalchief

    Tribalchief New Member

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    Jun 16, 2018
    Thanks for the link nineoaks, I have been using that along with other data so far. I think what I'm going to do is plugin overnight with a thermometer inside and one out to see if it is working on a.c. or not. I think the thermocouple idea is one I'll peruse. I just wish there was a way to test it first before I throw parts at the problem. This particular thermocouple is not electric. It just goes from the bottom of the valve to the tip of the flame. How do you test? Stick a flame under it and see if the valve opens? Idk.
     
  10. Toedtoes

    Toedtoes Well-Known Member

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    When mine went bad, the pilot light wouldn't stay lit. It cost only $7, so I just tried it to see if it fixed the problem. Figured it would cost more to try and problem solve first.
     
  11. Tribalchief

    Tribalchief New Member

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    Jun 16, 2018
    I really apreciate everyones help and suggestions. I'm leaning toward the thermocoupler being the issue. The cheapest one for my model Dometic 2193 is about $29 plus shipping. Only my pinky this time. 2923435230 is the part number.
     
  12. SteveP

    SteveP Well-Known Member

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    While you changed the valve the propane lines filled with air. It takes a long time to push all that air out through that tiny orifice. Light the indoor stove and allow it to burn for a couple of minutes to purge most of the air. It still may take a couple of minutes to get gas to the fridge burner. Just be patient, hold the pilot open and hit the sparker button every 10 seconds or so until you hear the pop.
     
  13. Drvred

    Drvred Member

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    On either mode, hold your hand over the stack, you should feel heat if its working.
     
  14. nineoaks2004

    nineoaks2004 Every meal is a picnic and every Day is a holiday

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    Oct 15, 2006
    Graceville, Florida
  15. SteveP

    SteveP Well-Known Member

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    Unless I've missed it in multiple readings of this thread the OP has not yet seen flame at the fridge burner. Until you see flame, hold the gas control in the light position for 20 t0 30 seconds and release the gas control the thermocouple is not even in play. If the flame goes out then you MAY have a thermocouple issue.
     
  16. Tribalchief

    Tribalchief New Member

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    Jun 16, 2018
    Thanks Steve. I'll do just that and if it goes out, test the thermocouple via millivolts setting on multimeter along with a flame to see if I can achieve 30mv. There is a great YouTube video on this test that nineoaks suggested.
     
  17. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    The thermocouple will not prevent it from working on A/C. On A/C you will still feel heat from the coils at the rear.. and if you can't feel any heat, there is another issue. Does the heating elements get hot?The thermocouple will not prevent it from lighting, just will not let it stay lit.
     
  18. Tribalchief

    Tribalchief New Member

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    Jun 16, 2018
    Ok, I dug a little deeper into my problem:

    On the a.c. side:
    I pulled the switch out and tested for continuity and found that one side was good but the other side bad. (I had previously tested this but while it was still installed and connected. )This must have been my culprit and why I couldn't get anything to work on the a.c. side. Ordered a new one and after I install it, I'll give you an update.

    On the gas side:
    I pulled the thermocouple and followed a test I viewed from YouTube and it was bad. I've ordered a new one and after I install, I'll give you an update.

    Thanks go out to every person who helped me in this matter! When our fridge is working again, more thanks are due!
     
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  19. Tribalchief

    Tribalchief New Member

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    Jun 16, 2018
    After parts replacement:

    Gas is working flawlessly. Got it down about 30 degrees below ambient temp. Within 10 hours. I'm sure if I gave it more time I could get it to 40 below. - gas solved

    AC: replaced switch (which most definitely needed replacing) but cannot get any warmth from stack at all. I also tried DC and got nothing. I don't think 2 separate heaters have gone bad at the same time. I'm leaning toward the thermostat unless anyone can show me what I'm missing. Is there a way to test these ol electric thermostats?

    This is the one that fits my 2193 domenic.

    https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-2926528106-Electric-Thermostat/dp/B00SHOOQ6A

    21NWFSVSXdL.jpg
     
  20. Sjm9911

    Sjm9911 Well-Known Member

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    Bypass it, hook the wires together that are connected to the thermostat. If it powers up, them the thermostat isn't working.
     

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