Coleman stepper door hinge repair

Discussion in 'Miscellaneous Repairs & Maintenance' started by BajaPup, Aug 9, 2012.

  1. BajaPup

    BajaPup New Member

    879
    1
    Apr 19, 2012
    Like many other owners have experienced, one of the rivets on my 2009 Coleman Yuma's door hinge assembly failed. I bought it used, but I believe it was probably poorly riveted when new, the bucked side of the rivet was barely capable of holding the rivet in place, and it worked its way out of the hinge. I'd already re-bucked the rivet as best I could, but I knew it was going to fail. Fortunately, I was standing on the good side when it did, and there was no damage to the door.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rivet

    I opted to replace the rivet with a screw type fastener. I believe this is a stronger connection than I could've replicated with a rivet. The downsides to using a screw are clearance issues and the possibility that the fastener will loosen with use. Using a T-nut and thread locker takes care of those issues.

    I was able to buy all of the required parts at a Westlake / Ace / True Value store for a few dollars.

    Parts List

    One 8-32 x 1/4" stainless steel, Brad Hole style, T-nut
    One 8-32 x 3/8" stainless steel, Phillips, pan head machine screw
    One #8 flat nylon washer
    Two 1/4" flat nylon washers
    Tube of medium grade thread locker

    The hole on the short, inboard portion of the hinge was slightly out of round, so I used a multi-tool to debur it. The 1/4" T-nut was a snug fit. I believe it's better to open up the hole slightly to use a #8 screw than it would be to downsize to a #10, which would be weaker and would move around in the hole, introducing more wear. The first two photos show the bucked side of the stock rivet. This is the section that failed on the side I replaced, which let the rivet fall out of the assembly.

    Please forgive the quality of the photos. I snapped them while trying to beat a thunderstorm to the punch. If someone wants better photos, just ask.


    Stock, rivetted side
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Repaired side
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    I arranged the parts in this order, starting from the inside out, on the right side.
    T-nut / 1/4"washer / Lower Hinge Section / 1/4" washer / Upper hinge section / #8 washer / #8 screw

    By using a Brad Type T-nut and 3/8" long screw, no cutting or grinding of either is required. The T-nut fits into the hole in the Lower Hinge Section snugly, and the 1/4" washer fit properly in this orientation. I applied thread locker to both the T-nut and screw and assembled the hinge. I tightened the screw to the point where it was approximately one turn from being flush with the bottom of the T-nut. This provided enough tension to the joint to avoid a lot of play, but still left enough slop for the hinge to operate smoothly. Once the thread locker had cured, I sprayed a light cost of dry lube to the pivot points.

    Much thanks to JBousselot for the assistance.
    http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=47713.0
     
    bbt95762 likes this.
  2. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    768
    2
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Nice, a solid looking fix that I will have to look at on mine. Thanks for the great post!
     
  3. RhinoDave

    RhinoDave Active Member

    2,324
    6
    Oct 29, 2008
    Lake Orion, Mi.
    Nice job on detailing the repair. Thanks for sharing.
     
  4. JBousselot

    JBousselot Member

    214
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    Apr 2, 2011
    Nice use of nylon washers to fill the gaps. Good work.
     
  5. BajaPup

    BajaPup New Member

    879
    1
    Apr 19, 2012
    I hope it saves a few people from trashing their doors. I really like the overall design, but that rivet just isn't strong enough for long term use.
     
  6. dav1966

    dav1966 New Member

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    Sep 6, 2010
    wow this post was perfect timeing i just took off my door this evening to replace the the lock on it and was wondering what would be a good way to replace the rivets on the drop down hinges and if others had ran into this thanx for sharing
     
  7. Hanne

    Hanne New Member

    380
    1
    Oct 20, 2011
    The problem with our stepper door is where the top section of that hinge attaches to the camper body, on the right side. It looks different from the left side, which is more solid. The rivet thing is cracked, and when you shut the door it catches which seems like it will crack it further. But it's not set up like this Yuma where you have access to both sides of it to repair.
     
  8. BajaPup

    BajaPup New Member

    879
    1
    Apr 19, 2012
    Post some photos here or in a new thread and maybe someone can figure out an easy fix. Also, you may spend some time wandering around a good hardware store until inspiration strikes. Lots of cool bits in all of those drawers.

    BTW, I saw some mylar washers that'd work fine in place of the nylon ones I used. The mylar ones are much thinner, so if clearance is an issue for someone, they may be the solution.
     
  9. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

    4,621
    6
    Jun 21, 2012
    Our new trailer has a stepper door, so I know this will be an issue in the future. I'm 220 lbs so I've thought about it. I've seen a little 'jack' that goes under TT steps. Has anyone done this for Pup's?
     
  10. BajaPup

    BajaPup New Member

    879
    1
    Apr 19, 2012
    A neighbor gave me a pair of adjustable braces that'll fit under the door, but I haven't bothered with them. If you use something to crib the door, you'll probably want to protect the door's finish.
     
  11. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

    4,621
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    Jun 21, 2012
    Just one of many things I am going to do when it finally gets here.

    I love tinkering...
     
  12. Srt4inliny

    Srt4inliny "It ain't campin if ya can't hear nature"

    123
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    May 18, 2011

    What I wanna know is how to remove that upper rivet you see on the top hinge. I already have a replacement door due to a shipping mishap and the shipping company getting a new door to the PO and the PO gave us the door to replace. I just need to know how to remove the upper rivet. or is it a screw. I can screw one out to a point and then it stops. what gives.?
     
  13. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

    4,621
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    Jun 21, 2012
    You have to drill out the center of the rivet. Sometimes you have to hold the rivet with vise-grips or pliers so it doesn't spin.
     
  14. Srt4inliny

    Srt4inliny "It ain't campin if ya can't hear nature"

    123
    0
    May 18, 2011
    I understand that. But is there a way to remove them and reuse or replace them with an equivalent.
     
  15. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

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    Jun 21, 2012
    You can't reuse a rivet. You can replace them with an equivalent rivet, but you'd need an air-powered rivet gun...
    There's post about "stepper door repair" somewhere. I'm on my phone, so I'll have to post this, then look for it. :)
     
  16. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

    4,621
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    Jun 21, 2012
    I think you've already seen this thread...
    http://popupportal.com/index.php?topic=30458.0

    I personally would get a stainless rivet equivalent and rent a rivet gun or go to a body shop the has one, like one of the people in this thread (or was it another ??? ) did.

    I will soon have a Coachmen Clipper with a stepper door. I'm 220 pounds, so I wonder what I'm going to have to do. I'll probably have to order parts from the U.S. :eek:
     
  17. RFryer

    RFryer Hopkinton, MA

    768
    2
    Mar 10, 2009
    Hopkinton, MA
    Rivet guns are cheap, I think mine was $20 or less.
     
  18. BigBaron

    BigBaron Dreaming of Tommy's chili cheeseburgers...

    4,621
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    Jun 21, 2012
    That's for aluminum rivets. We used stainless steel rivets when doing marine piling encasements (WABO A.P.E. system), and there was no hand-tool strong enough to make the rivets work. They weren't really big rivets, either.
     
  19. CamL48

    CamL48 New Member

    1,426
    2
    Feb 20, 2012
    Just wanted to post that I just did this on my 2007 Fleetwood Utah. The last trip, I dropped my stepper door from it's highest point, snapping one of the rivets. Fortunately, this happened during tear-down, so didn't affect our camping.

    Anyway, I had to drill out one hole with a 3/8" drill bit, as the hole was just a tad too tight for the #8 T-Nut to fit through.

    Also, my Lowe's did not have the hardware listed below in SS. They had SS stuff, just not in the sizes listed below. Otherwise, the sizes listed below are spot on. Perfect fit in an area that really needs a perfect fit, as the tolerances are so low when folding it all up.

    Thanks for the great detailed instructions.

     
  20. BajaPup

    BajaPup New Member

    879
    1
    Apr 19, 2012
    Glad the list helped. I returned from a Utah trip today and your post reminded me that I need to replace the remaining factory rivet before it fails. Thanks!
     

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