Front Storage Box Repair

Discussion in 'Roof/Floor Repair & Maintenance' started by jman1200, Oct 15, 2014.

  1. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    Tonight I'm going to start fixing my storage box. It had some minor water damage when I bought the PUP and the PO told me that water was getting in but he didn't know how.... after a year, I haven't been able to figure that out either.

    I suspect there could be those famous hairline cracks underneath the hinge (I went into the storage box a sunny day, closed the lid and couldn't see any light coming in [?:~{]) and there is also the side access door, I have to say that most of the times I don't fully close it when its raining (I don't like that the door needs to be key locked to be able to fully close it). The water damage is where the side door is but I've found water all over the stuff stored in the trunk.

    I'd like to know which would be the best wood to use, available at Lowe's or Homedepot, I'm not planning to go on a manhunt for some fancy marine type wood.

    Also, has anyone though of sealing the joint between the walls and the floor and adding some sort of floor drains? This in case water comes in again or there is a spill, at least the majority of the water will get out.

    For the side door, has anyone added some sort of visor that will keep water away? (something similar to this http://www.amazon.com/LT-Sport-serial-Window-Spoiler/dp/B00HI5XX9A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1413388225&sr=8-1&keywords=rv+door+visor). Any recommendations to replace the annoying door lock?

    Thanks in advance !
     
  2. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    You should be able to find marine grade plywood at either Lowes or HD ... I sealed the edges of the storage compartment on our Palomino, just used regular kitchen and bath silicone and drill two drain holes in the front corner area, inserted a short piece of rubber hose and used a small hose clamp to keep it from falling out, not sue how well it worked but never had water in the storage box..

    Which locks are you talking about ? the common 671 locks that are on every trailer ? if so you can buy some combi locks and install them.. http://www.combi-cam.com/Combination-Cam-Locks.htm

    The visor, while it may sound like a good idea, could lead to trapping snow against the seal area of the lid and cause other issues during the spring ..
     
  3. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    Wood: I just checked online at those two stores, no reference to marine plywood [?:~{] Is there a secret code name for it ???
    Drain: good to know that someone has tried this, I am going to look for something similar to this http://www.homedepot.ca/product/tub-waste-strainer/978484
    Lock: here's a pic, you cannot remove the key unless it's in the closed position.

    [​IMG]

    Visor: I was just walking around and saw a wall mounted mailbox. If cut to the right length and installed upside down might do the trick.

    [​IMG]

    Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Jul 18, 2017
  4. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    You may have to ask them in the store for the plywood.. That sink drain has rather large holes, perfect size for rodents and insects to get into the storage box ..
     
  5. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    Windsor Plywood (remember them?) stocks marine grade plywood. Expense aside, and FWIW, you can use plywood if you want but if it gets wet, it's going to warp, separate and rot just as quickly as exposure rated OSB will.

    Floor drains in the front storage compartment? Put some screen in them to keep critters out and it sure can't hurt!

    BTW, if you look at the floor under your fridge, you might find an expanded metal screen stapled on top of a 2" to 3" hole in the floor. It allows rain and condensation to get out of the fridge compartment.
     
  6. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    Agree about the drain, that why I said "similar". I do want it to have a ring that covers the top of the hole.
    I almost done removing the ABS, I estimate I'll be going to the store looking for wood on the weekend.
     
  7. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    Yes, I did find Windsor's Plywood website and read about their marine grade plywood. As I said, I have no intention of special ordering wood that will also cost hundreds. So, in your opinion (or experience ???) what would you use, plywood or OSB?
     
  8. crackerJack

    crackerJack Active Member

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    Mine came from PO, very rotten. I rebuilt mine with standard osb. It will leak at the side access door if both latches are not engaged. Near the corners of the roof seal where the steel meets the abs is a problem area. Finally I discovered the leak under the hinge. I love my storage trunk, but its a PITA to leak proof.
     
  9. jnc

    jnc Welcome from New Hampshire

    Jman1200 you should at least use pressure treated plywood. It will at least take getting wet better than osb or mdf.
     
  10. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    5/8" Exposure rated OSB. No question about it. It's what the manufacturers use and it's $40 for a 4'x8' sheet. In the end, it doesn't matter what you use. If it's exposed to too much moisture for too long, it'll rot. Fix the floor, fix the leaks and you won't have a problem.

    You might want to take a look at my resto thread to see how I tackled the same issues on my '96 Viking. Click my username on this post then click the camera under my username on my profile page to get there. Flooring section start on page three.
     
  11. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    I knew the time would come and I'll have to fix my storage box, read it many weeks ago, nicely done.
     
  12. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    Last night I removed the lid, top and front ABS covers. I'm posting pictures and step by step instructions of the process that will hopefully help others in the future.
    I had already removed the beds so I could open the PUP in my garage and have access to the interior.

    There are a few cracks on the ABS, I wonder if anyone has tried Marine Tex to fix it ??? I have some very expensive left over Marine Tex that I would like to use, it worked very well once that I had to repair the hull of one of my Waverunners.
    Also, I need to order the double sided tape, I know there is one that is used on car moldings that works very well but I don't recall the name for it. Suggestions?

    This is the damage I was able to see, the floor is rotten on the right edge and the wood around the door had expanded from the water damage.
    [​IMG]20141015-01243-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    First thing to do is remove the white screws around the top cover, then remove the two metal strips under the hinge so you can access the nuts of the multiple bolts that hold the hinge in place. I decided to remove the trunk lamp by drilling the two rivets that hold it in place, I didn't want to cut any wires.

    [​IMG]20141015-01251-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    I had this mini-ratchet set that I've never used before, it came in handy for this job.

    [​IMG]20141015-01246-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    After removing all the bolts, use a putty knife to remove the adhesive as you pull up the lid.

    [​IMG]20141015-01250-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20141015-01252-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    Now you want to remove the top cover. Remove the bed friction pads and the aluminum rail, this last one also has double sided tape holding it in place.

    [​IMG]20141015-01257-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    I used a putty knife and an exacto knife to cut through the tape that holds this section in place. The exacto knife worked best for me. Make sure you cut all the way from front to back before attempting to lift the top cover.

    [​IMG]20141015-01256-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    Once both sides are completely detached, lift the front of the top cover and gently pull it forward. At this point it shouldn't take much effort to remove it, otherwise there might still be some tape holding it.

    I didn't find any hairline cracks on the top cover but the adhesive used by the PO to patch a small crack was coming off. I believe this was one of the points of entry.

    [​IMG]20141015-01261-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    I also found two cracks on the top of the front cover, although there is noticeable water damage in the area, I don't understand how water was getting in through these cracks as they are both covered by the top cover.
    I was a bit surprised to not find any double sided tape on the front section, between the top and front covers. There was some silicone but I believe this was applied by the PO.

    [​IMG]20141015-01259-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20141015-01260-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    I found a "time capsule", the date of manufacture, some code and a happy face written on the wood.

    [​IMG]20141015-01263-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20141015-01262-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    Now its time to remove the front cover. Remove the LP tanks, regulator and front lid hinges. Then stick the exacto knife through the joint and cut through the double sided tape as before. The picture shows the front cover already detached, notice the amount of tape holding it in place.

    [​IMG]20141015-01265-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    After completing both sides, pull the cover forward, don't tilt it much as there is a section sandwiched between the frame and floor that could brake. Disconnect the lights, two wires coming from the left side of the trailer.

    [​IMG]20141015-01269-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20141015-01270-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    I was surprised to see so much water damage, I though only the right side of the PUP was affected. This first picture also shows where I disconnected the front lights.

    [​IMG]20141015-01272-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    [​IMG]20141015-01271-2 by JP M, on Flickr

    I'll do some more work tonight, thanks to all who have been following, answering my questions and sending their suggestions.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2017
  13. Dubbya

    Dubbya Wherever you go, there you are...

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    If it's not just common butyl tape that seals those panel joints, I believe you might be looking for 3M Scotch-Mount Molding Tape:
    http://3mcollision.com/3m-scotch-mount-molding-tape-03616.html

    It's pretty simple to find and fix leaks that occur when the camper is stationary but you've really got to consider what happens when the camper is in motion.

    For example, a vacuum is created inside the camper while being towed at highway speeds. If there's no sealant in some of those joints, road spray and rain get siphoned in and the moisture can't get out through the bottom. Same goes for the underside edge of any front panels, anything that's surface mounted and the roof seal as well.

    Just thinking out loud here, but are you sure you want to seal the plastic joints with 3M molding tape or, with all the expansion, shifting and flexing that those plastic panels are prone to and considering that the joints are fairly well covered, would butyl tape not be a better choice? I don't know but I'd sure be interested to hear from others who've replaced those panels.
     
  14. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    I'm glad to see that you are fixing it right, and not putting a band-aid on it by trying to add visors, etc.. If the seals and are correctly sealed, you'll be fine. This was a very common issue for that era camper, I hope that you're able to resolve it.
     
  15. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    I've done a lot of reading about wood, I'm now more confused than before [LOL].
    I found that OSB and Plywood are both classified as Interior, Exterior and Exposure 1. The following link (amongst many others) explains the difference between them http://www.tecotested.com/techtips/pdf/tt_exposureratings

    Lowe's lists these classifications on their website, none of the OSB sheets they carry are Exterior grade, most are Exposure 1. I'll still ask the question when I get there as suggested by Dubbya.
    Some of the Plywood they offer is rated as Exterior. I read the characteristics of all 5/8 sheets finding the following:

    Pressure Treated Spruce http://www.lowes.ca/plywood/top-choice-58-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-spruce-pressure-treated-plywood_g1354160.html, exterior grade, $ 45/sheet, weight 70lbs !!!

    Spruce Standard http://www.lowes.ca/plywood/58-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-csp-spruce-standard-sheathing-plywood_g1432015.html, exterior grade, $ 32/sheet, weight 42lbs.

    Standard Fir http://www.lowes.ca/plywood/58-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-standard-fir-plywood_g1339259.html, exterior grade, $ 30/sheet, weight 52lbs.

    At the end, I believe any of these is going the be the same or better than what Coleman initially used. I was inclined towards the pressure treated but it weights almost twice than others. At this point I'm inclined for the Spruce, weight is an important factor to consider.
     
  16. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    The reason I thought about adding a visor is because as you can see, most of the floor damage was near the side door. I don't trust the seal on this door and thought that a visor might help keep the water out during heavy rain. The door is plastic so if I replace the rubber strip for a thicker one, the door its just going to bend and not necessarily seal any better.
     
  17. kmh1596

    kmh1596 Wilbraham, MA

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    Get a "D" type bulb seal, or even put one seal on the door, and the other on the other surface... With the right seal, or a double seal for part of it, it will seal well.
     
  18. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    Rather then use a visor over the door, look for some rain channel / gutter used on TT's and the like and run a piece of that above the access doors..
     
  19. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    You are right, butyl tape is the right thing to use. I added it to my purchase list.
     
  20. jman1200

    jman1200 http://i529.photobucket.com/albums/dd340/jmanotas/

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    Good point, found this in Amazon, http://www.amazon.com/EZE-RV-Gutter-System8482-package-Ultra-White/dp/B001FCDX1A/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413481324&sr=8-2&keywords=rv+rain+gutter, another item to my shopping list.

    It's a 10ft package so I might use what's left at the end of the roof, at the front, to divert the rain coming down on to the storage box. I always park my trailer inclined to the front.
     
    ezakoske likes this.

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