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Discussion in 'Propane - Got Gas' started by MyName, Nov 26, 2018.
Bingo, I'd say. Your furnace is rated to draw only 2.9 amps. Verify with an ammeter.
Try to turn the fan by hand. If stiff or jumpy, it could be a dry bushing or bad bearing, depending on the fan construction. Bushings can be oiled, bearings can be replaced except on really cheap fans. Either of these conditions will make the fan draw too much power.
the blower motor (fan) is drawing ~5.6 amps. Time to buy a new one. Thank you all for your help. I'm going to start deep cleaning the furnace while I wait for the part in the mail.
@WrkrBee I wanted to add that the fan was stiff to move. I don't want to try and fix the bearing and have it fail on me in the middle of a cold night.
I tested the new fan blower motor. it pulled 2.2 amps. Still cleaning the furnace and installing it.
Look at what I found. I had roommates.
That reinforces the reason why we have screens on the exhaust.
Not plastic or vinyl screen... only metal ones.
Oh boy... good thing you are getting it taken care of!
Update: I have tested the new blower in the furnace and all is working in my house without propane. No blown fuse. I will install in the trailer tomorrow and test it overnight.
Note. The new blower motor had about the same resistance when I tried to spin it by hand as the old bad blower motor.
Thank you all for the great advice, and I hope you don't mind these updates.
read all posts, learned.
Question. There is a grey puddy aroundnd the outside vent. It is to seal it and make it water proof. What is it? Plummers puddy? I think I should replace it.
@kitphantom thanks. I'll buy some from Amazon.
Put the furnace together in the camper. It works great. It takes about 30 seconds after the fan turns on for the flame to start. It use to take 5-10 minutes.
That's great! We do like to hear about problem solving, not just hear the suggested fixes.
I have a partial roll of butyl tape to offer for the cost of shipping, but it looks like it's not expensive at all. I may have to post it in the free area, along with some other small parts.
Thanks. Current status: Fail.
So I'm still having issues. It won't always light the flame. Once lite I can turn down the Thermostat to kill the flame, then turn it up to relite it, it's just hard to lite from the off position. Note the orange electrode wire was damaged and I put electricse tape on it. The wire reminds me of spark plug wire. It also tends to light better with out the metal grate on. In fact I've only got it lite once with the grate on. And dozens of times without it.
I think the sail switch is the issue. The grate must block just enough air so that it doesn't push all the way. If I remove the grate I see it move. I probably bent the sail switch.
Hi all. I pulled my furnace, and removed the blower motor (fan) to gain access to the sail switch. I bent the switch back to it's 90 degree angle based on images I found online. I really bent it while cleaning out the triangle wind tunnel. I tested the furnace, outside the trailer, with the grate on before and after i fixed it. The sail switch does close faster after I adjusted it. Now time to reinstall it in the trailer.
On the plus side, my mistake made it so that I accidentally knock off a lot of rust out of the burner cavity while doing this extra repair.
In case anyone wants to know the manual states that the sail switch is called "microswitch" part number 231930
I never use the furnace.. it is too much trouble. I use ceramic heater or big buddy heater. I am mulling on removing the furnace and replace it with electric cord retractable reel.
I wrap mine in plastic wrap and store it so it lays flat. Never know when you'll need more.
Mine is less trouble than my Buddy Heater or electric heater. Either of those I have to get out and hook up, the furnace is just the flip of the switch on the thermostat.