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Discussion in 'Tires / Brakes / Bearings / Axles' started by Hoyt Burrass, May 18, 2018.
I have wired more trucks than I can count from scratch. You are lucky!
My truck is confusing. I bought it used in 2011. It has the bracket under the dash, but it also has the 4 pin flat connector. I'm wondering if somebody removed the 6 or 7 way wiring for the brakes.
I would take a close look under the rear!
Well, I got a cardboard box and put it under the rear of the truck and slid underneath. All the while hoping nobody would see me and think this old lady has dementia or something! I found some sort of pin connector and tried to count the wires - I'm positive there was 6 and pretty sure there was 7. Every time I tried to move a wire, dirt fell in my face and even with glasses on, got in my eyes. The wires were in one of those sleeves or whatever it is, but I couldn't see where it went other than at the bumper somewhere. When I got up I check to make sure there was no other connection with the flat trailer connector. So, it is there somewhere and that should help on the cost of having somebody wire it from the front to the rear.
I have 2 different 7-way connectors and a cable with the junction box to go on the trailer. So I think I've got that covered. Getting the trailer wired will be the next adventure.
Flat 4 only, means that the truck wasn't ordered with a trailer tow package. On early trucks the wiring was still there, and all you had to do was order the 7 pin pigtail and replace the 4 pin. Order the Ford pigtail for your make/model brake controller and you would be good to go. At some point Ford stopped installing the required relays if you didn't get the trailer tow package. So you will have to track down the correct relays and install them in the correct locations in the under hood fuse box. And get the 7 pin pigtail.
I hope I have everything I need for the brake controller and the 7 way wiring. I could have gone with 6, but I wanted to be able to add backup lights on the rear side and if I can figure how to install them on the back, there too. I don't see me trying to backup in the dark, but just in case I like to be prepared.
Oh those were the days....NOT!
Even if you get everything right on the truck, if the trailer's brake wiring is cut you obviously still won't have trailer brakes. So you need to sort that out. Look under the camper at the inner side of the wheel hubs. Are there wires coming out of them (usually one blue and one white)? If not, you don't have braking hubs. If yes, then it's time to test them. The white is the ground wire, and the blue is brake power. A brake controller sends varying voltage on the blue wire to apply the brakes at varying levels. Full voltage applies the brakes full-on. You can test the brakes by jacking up one side and connecting a 12v battery to the wires (positive to the blue wire and negative to the white wire). Have the wheel spinning before applying the power and see if it immediately stops. If so, it would appear that side works. Then try the same test on the other side. Don't leave full power on the brakes any longer than is necessary. You likely also want to pull the wheels and hubs to inspect the drum brake shoes to make sure they still have some wear left in them.
Assuming the brakes on both hubs are functional, you now need to get the blue and white wires at the hubs reconnected to the blue and white wires at the tongue.
As others have suggested, changing the 6-prong plug to a 7-blade connector matching your truck would be a great idea.
Are you sure. If it has the tow package then it has integrated brake control for the trailer.