Replace Tongue Jack

Discussion in 'Stabilizing Your Camper' started by cam_1100, Aug 7, 2018.

  1. cam_1100

    cam_1100 Member

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    17
    May 10, 2018
    Rochester, MN
    I want to replace the side mounted swing-away jack with an a-frame jack. However, my camper doesn't have a hole in it for the a-frame jack to go through. It looks like there is enough room on the coupler plate to cut a hole, but I want to be sure it's okay to do so. I have an angle grinder and a Dremel tool so I should be able to cut it out and drill the bolt holes myself. I figure the hole for the jack shaft doesn't have to be perfect since the weight is carried by the bolts. I would probably add a lower support plate as well.

    The other option is to replace the entire coupler with one that already has a hole for the a-frame jack, but I'd rather not go that route.

    Does anyone have any experience doing this or know enough to recommend the best way to proceed?
     
  2. Matt Benoit

    Matt Benoit Active Member

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    Jul 30, 2017
    Warren, MI
    Keep the whole perfectly round for too maintain structural strength of the coupler plate. Use a whole saw appropriately sized for the jack you choose. I believe mine was 2in.
     
  3. gladecreekwy

    gladecreekwy Active Member

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    Sep 25, 2016
    Just replaced my jack and almost all of my choices were 2 1/4”
     
  4. gladecreekwy

    gladecreekwy Active Member

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    Sep 25, 2016
    Check out the “Ultimate Trailer Jack” Cool drop leg design, long travel and you can remove it from the collar for max ground clearance. Just installed one and I’m very happy with it.
     
    jnc and soft 17 like this.
  5. crackerJack

    crackerJack Well-Known Member

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    Jan 6, 2014
    Scottsville, KY
    I swapped mine to allow room for a dual 6v box.
    I used a hole saw and a bottom support plate just like you are thinking. Worked well.
    E80FDEE3-5B87-48A1-898C-DE2C47E23180.jpeg
     
    megcabra likes this.
  6. cam_1100

    cam_1100 Member

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    May 10, 2018
    Rochester, MN
    There we go, that looks like what I want! Thanks for posting the pic. Did you use a hole saw specifically for metal (expensive) or a bi-metal/multi-purpose hole saw (not so expensive)?

    My other thought was to use a jigsaw with a metal-cutting blade to cut a hole just under what I need, then a Dremel grinder to finish it off.
     
  7. cam_1100

    cam_1100 Member

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    May 10, 2018
    Rochester, MN
    That looks great. I'll definitely look into that. Looks like my local TSC store carries them so I can go check one out.
     
  8. joet

    joet Well-Known Member

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    Mar 16, 2011
    Elkins WV area
    Add the lower support plate. Find some with good welding skills
     
  9. gladecreekwy

    gladecreekwy Active Member

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    Sep 25, 2016
    F821F109-3CA3-48E7-8E3A-53E34F60220B.jpeg
     
  10. crackerJack

    crackerJack Well-Known Member

    1,006
    213
    Jan 6, 2014
    Scottsville, KY
    A regular bi metal hole saw. Drill slow. Slower is better. Too fast and the teeth will melt and dull. Squirt a little oil occasionally. Drill pilot hole first with only arbor bit, then add the hole saw.
    It’s super easy.
     
  11. SpecialGreen

    SpecialGreen New Member

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    3
    Jul 5, 2018
    I also want to change from side-mount to A-frame mount (so I can use my Equal-i-zer). But the steel triangle on my trailer tongue looks too small to take a 2.25 inch hole. I think I'd have to weld on a bigger plate, and then buy the 2.25" bimetal hole saw (about $20).

    Does the $5 "bottom support plate" look strong enough for me to weld one on the bottom, and one on the top, and be done? (the ad says "5000 lbs" but no mention of the steel gauge).
     

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