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Discussion in 'Refrigerators and Coolers' started by Digger, Apr 11, 2009.
There...fixed the link for ya
More success. Wimpy flame. Tore burner assembly apart and found spiders/web in nozzle going to burner. WOrks great now!
This appears to be exactly what I need, as my Dometic 2193 fridge only stays "lit" while the gas valve is pushed down. However, upon reading the thread, I see that I "may" have a leak, as I can see a fairly good sized (say, a little larger than 1") behind the square box, that goes out after I release the gas valve.
However, I cannot find the pictures that apparenly go along with this thread, is there a link that I'm missing? I'd sure like to see what it's supposed to look like before I tear into it.
The pictures were hosted on the now defunct Webshots website. They changed up their model of business and address so old picture links are now dead.
Oh, well, that explains that! That's okay, I found a manual with very similar intructions, and a diagram for what I was looking for, along with a parts list for my particular fridge, so all is not lost. Very good instructions, and, along with the diagrams, I now have it torn apart, and waiting for the wind to die down a bit so I can see if it will light before I put the cover back on..
Thanks for the update!
All is right with my world!! Used the instructions, and the parts diagram I found online, and removed the cover, checked out the inside, and using canned air, blew out the "nasty" that was in there. Used the little "tube" on the canned air to stick in the hole in the side of the burner block, blew that out, and the burner "bowl". Tested it without the cover on, shielding it from the wind with my hand, and we had a nice little blue flame. Now for the time of truth, released the LP "button", and it stayed lit. Shut it down, put the cover back on, reconnected the piezio, and lit it up again. Left it overnight on high, and this morning, the fridge was at about 21 degrees!!! Maybe shouldn't keep it on "high"?
Thanks SO much for this thread, and this site, I've learned so much, and actually really built up my confidence using the advice from here! Now, where was that campground????
Glad to hear you had success! My fridge has been an ongoing nightmare with LP and I'm about ready to give up (i.e. RV dealer) after cleaning too many hours cleaning the chimney and pipe, installing baffles, re-doing the seal, widing the orifice and then replacing the orifice. This morning the thermometer read 47 for the fridge, grrr!
My 2000 Coleman Cheyenne fridge seemed to maybe have spider webs or rust or such in an orifice or perhaps an exhaust vent, as I was getting more of flame than used to, as well as more of an orange tip to the flame of the pilot. In doing a google search, I came across this thread, and after cleaning out the burner and carefully de-rusting it with steel wool and a brass wire brush, there is now a nice clean hot blue four-fingered flame at the slits and no flame at the air intake holes. The fridge was plenty cold this morning after running overnight. Thanks so much for all the guidance!
I'm again questioning if anyone had ever thought to replace the LP regulator. I had exaclty the same issues with mine, and I pulled it out and bench tested it and fiddled around with it off and on for week. I cleaned tubing, I removed the orifice, I dusted off the fins etc, until one day I realized the problem rested with the LP regulator, as one of the tests I did was to connect the propane cylinder and regulator from my grill. After the grill tank and regulator were installed, all was well with the world. I replaced the LP regulator on the PUP, and re-installed the fridge. Voila!!! Good as new.
Last September (2008), after a summer of using the fridge on both propane and 120v, the fridge stopped working on propane. I could get it to light, and the stack would heat up, but it wouldn't cool. The most telling clue to what was wrong was that the flame was burning orange instead of normal blue.
7 months later (without attempting any repair), I tried it again this past weekend.....same result...orange flame, hot stack, no cooling. I called the RV mechanic at my dealer and described the situation...his answer was immediate....spiders (or something) had nested in the burner. He provided a brief description of how to fix it, and some extraordinarily valuable tips.
Here's the process I used for cleaning out the burner:
The back of the fridge. The burner assembly is behind the square metal cover on the bottom right.
Burner assembly with the cover removed. There is a single screw behind the large black tube - to the left of the screw visible in the pic) which is the only screw you need to remove to remove the cover. On the right of the cover are two screws holding a piece of metal that slides into the cover - these don't need to be removed. (You can see this more clearly on the last picture in this thread). After removing the single screw on the left. slide the cover to the left and twist it up so that the screw 'flange' will slide under the propane supply tube. I've also disconnected the igniter wire from the white ceramic igniter.... a simple pull does the trick here.
Close up of the burner assembly. The debris is from the igniter wire and it's insulating 'boot' being fried. When I lit the burner this weekend, I noted that the orange flame was coming out of the hole in the burner tube (just to the left of the numbers on the bronze-looking piece)...another clue that the burner itself was clogged. The flame coming out of the wrong place burned up the igniter wire. If you look closely in that hole, you can see the brown residue of the insect nest. The burner is the round brass 'cup' with the screw in it to the right of the white ceramic igniter.
To remove the refrigerator - first MAKE SURE THE GAS IS OFF AND MAKE SURE THE BATTERY AND ELECTRIC SUPPLY TO THE CAMPER ARE DISCONNECTED. You have to disconnect the propane supply line to the left of the panel where the fridge operation switches are. Also unplug the electric cord, and disconnect the two 12volt supply wires (in this picture, the 12v wires are in the bottom left corner behind the insulation. the wires you see are connected to the same terminal block that the wires to be disconnected are. Remember which wire is which...for me - white on top, black on bottom)
To finish removal of the fridge, unscrew the two screws at the back of the fridge, and the....
three screws on either side of the front of the fridge.
Gently pull and rock the fridge out of it's hole into the camper....there may be some seals around the fridge that need to be broken/cut, and there may be a foam insulation strip glued to the top of the fridge that may need a little 'persuasion' to make it out through the opening. There is a metal plate on the bottom of the fridge that the two rear screws went through. This can be removed with three screws on the bottom of the fridge to make it easier to remove the burner assembly.
The burner assembly is removed using the screw to the right of the ceramic igniter. Be careful not to lose the star washer on the screw. After removing the screw, use a wrench to disconnect the propane supply line (silver pipe going in the left side of the assembly). I grabbed the bronze-looking square burner tube with a pair of channel locks while breaking the tightness of the supply line nut. There is a tiny 'aperture cup' that fits inside the burner tube (pictured below)...
make sure you tip out this little aperture cup...don't lose it....and don't attempt to clean out the hole in it with anything! This is a precision sized hole, and any attempt to 'ream' it out will damage it. You may clean the aperture cup with alcohol, if it appears to need it.
Here is the burner assembly removed (and hanging from the copper propane line). My mechanic describe is as looking like a 'crack pipe'...too funny. I did not attempt to remove the copper line because I assumed that it was a relatively precise placement inside the burner cup. It also uses a star bit, which I have, but often is used for a reason.
Close up of the 'crack pipe'. At this point, I used a piece of a hanger to scrape out the nest debris inside the bronze burner tube. I actually got a lot out, and also ran the hanger into the hole in the bottom of the burner cup.
When reassembling - be sure that you put the aperture cup back in the burner tube before you screw the supply nut on. the closed end of the cup goes into the tube first, and will come to rest against a stop about 1/2 an inch inside the tube. In one of the previous pictures in this thread you can just see the tip of the aperture cup inside the burner tube through the hole to the left of the numbers. I just cut out the bad section of the igniter wire and reconnected to the ceramic igniter.
After running on propane for 5 hours, I had dropped the temp in the fridge 40 degrees Big Smile...now I'm ready to do some boondocking when necessary! Thanks for reading through this overly long post!
~Cheers~ Digger ~
'04 Fleetwood Westlake (StonyBlue)/'02 Ford E-150
Nites camped: 2007-8, 2008-39, 2009-5(resvd-12)
EXCELLENT Tutorial! Thanks for the info, I would imagine everyone is going to have to go this deeply at some time.. Don't ever take down those photos!!
I didn't realize the pic links had died. Sorry....
I cleaned out the crack pipe again today, and we're back up and running once more. Off to the Northeast next week....
Does anyone know if that white "filter" pictured above is needed? I found it in my setup and it does come from the gas connect. I can't get my fridge below 48 degrees and after checking all the above with the burner, everything is fine.
Thanks for this Info!! Just saved me huge .....! Took out the burner assembly like shown - had to detach it with the gas supply hose cause it was so tight at the end there so I wound up with the crack pipe. Put that whole section in a glass filled with alcohol and let it sit overnight.... Blew through the hole a few times and debris settled at the bottom of the glass. Had to get a new connector for the wire to the electrode as the wire had been burnt from the flames coming out of the blocked jet. Put it all back together and .....Success!!! Cost me .54 cents - plus the alcohol I poured in the cup! Couldn't be happier!
Just wanted to say that I cleaned my 2193 yesterday as seen here - with the fridge in place. There is NO need to remove the entire fridge to fully clean the burner and crack pipe. Also a tip: I couldn't turn that 7/16 nut out, it was in so tight. So I heated it up with a propane torch for a few seconds and it came off a lot easier that way. Just please ensure you have no residual propane left in the lines (press down on the pilot for several seconds to fully clean any propane left in the line before bringing a flame to it).
However as seen in my thread (http://www.popupportal.com/index.php?topic=97330.0) this procedure did not resolve my issue. I'm now tempted to clean the chimney/flue/stack or whatever it's called. Question: can this be done with the fridge in place or must it be removed?
It's now a race against time to have this fixed, leaving in a week on a 6 day trip. My cold beer depends on the fridge cooling on propane. Nearing panic time
I can't pull up any pictures. I have a Coachman pop-up with a Demetic Frig. It works on 120v but not propane. I blew out the galvanized cylinder where the thermocouple is and it still doesn't ignite. I have gas to that point. I really don;t want to have to pull the frig out. I am not a wizard mechanic but sure would like to avoid an expensive trip to a Dealer. The housing for the thermocouple doesn't seem to have a screw to remove the cover and gain access in the event I need to replace the thermocouple. The igniter switch doesn't seem to spark but it is sure hard to tell.
Any suggestions are very welcome. Thx J
Success!!! Big thanks!