What? Stabilizers down after the top is up?

Discussion in 'Stabilizing Your Camper' started by MyName, Apr 8, 2018.

  1. f5moab

    f5moab Retired from the Federal Government

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    Wow that's an intelligent reply.
     
  2. 1380ken

    1380ken Well-Known Member

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    A level trailer on flat earth is much more important than whether your stabilizers are down or not.
     
    Bowman3d and myride like this.
  3. giadiep

    giadiep Active Member

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    Totally agree.
     
  4. giadiep

    giadiep Active Member

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    Totally agree.
     
  5. Boatnman

    Boatnman Well-Known Member

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    To keep this discussion going...Why does it have to be flat earth? o_O

    I don't think permanent damage to the frame is the issue, it's more about the racking of the frame during setup. As Raycfe pointed out, some people think the stabilizers are to be used as jacks. Jacking up a corner (by over stabilizing) and then raising the roof could cause the frame to flex enough that the door doesn't fit. As BelchFire said, Fleetwood/Coleman wants the trailer to be level and not stabilized when raising the roof to avoid undue stress on the lift system. Since other manufacturers use other lift systems, the setups probably won't be the same. Using the method in the Owner's Manual is the proper method.
     
    myride, XKPin, Bowman3d and 1 other person like this.
  6. Prinler

    Prinler New Member

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    I have 5000lb scissor jacks on all 4 corners. I own a 2001 Keystone Camplite. I am the 3rd owner. I added the jacks because its super bouncy and the 2 tiny rear stabs didnt work well. I can easily lift the wheels off the ground if im on un even ground (mostly boondocking for us). Do i level first then top or top then level I am so confused after reading all the back and forth.
     
  7. myride

    myride Well-Known Member

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    Level side to side using ball/blocks/andersen etc. Level front to back using tongue jack.......raise the roof then stabs down to stabilize only...NOT jack it in the air. Some manufacturers say stabs before raising roof......read your manual for clarification.
     
    nineoaks2004 and mx5tc like this.
  8. mx5tc

    mx5tc New Member

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    Myride's suggestion has worked for me with my 2000 Rockwood 1620. Lateral, then fore & aft leveling is important if one is using a Dometic ammonia fridge...which I have and like to use. I've tried roof up/stabs down and stabs down/roof up multiple times and always seem to do a little bit better if I drop the stabs b/4 I raise the roof. My evaluation point is how well the swing down door fits in the camper frame. If I raise the roof, pull out the bunks and then put down the rear stabs, the door won't even latch! If I put down the stabs firmly, re-check level, raise the roof, re-check/adjust level, the door latches firmly. If I raise the roof, put down the stabs, re-check/adjust level...the door loosely latches or doesn't latch at all. I've looked at the frame numerous times, it does not appear to be bent and there is no damage history on the camper (I'm the second owner since new). Despite what the "manual says", I know thru hard experience that the "right way" way to set my camper up is to level laterally, then fore & aft, then firmly set the rear Atwood swing down stabs before I try to raise the roof. YMMY, Mitch
     
  9. myride

    myride Well-Known Member

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    Hey...whatever works best for you....if roof doesn't bind on way up...stabs first!
     
  10. Dustin73

    Dustin73 New Member

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    I'm a new owner, just bought a '99 Viking and the guy ran me through everything to quick. First where can I find an owners manual since there is not one on this website. Second, how do I level it properly? Do I use the stabilizers to level it? Or do I just use the tongue jack? I'm very unsure. The stabilizers have nipples on them with a crank and the nipples have worn off so I'm trying with just pliers. Any suggestions for this?
     
  11. theseus

    theseus Centerville, OH

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    Stabilizers are NOT for leveling. Use the tongue jack for front to back and blocks (wood or lynx type) for side to side. Your handle for lowering the stabilizers might be worn. I'll bet a new handle will fit and turn just fine.

    As for the manual, does Viking have one available? You may have to call them...
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2018
  12. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    I couldn't have said it better myself. People will repeat what they have heard until it becomes the "truth"
    I don't think it makes a damn bit of difference. I would like a good scientific, mechanical engineering explanation of how damage could occur.
     
    emoney likes this.
  13. Orchid

    Orchid Sharp Shootin' Grandma

    Myth Busters! :wink: I know I'm not going to try it on our camper, myth or not. I'm fully indoctrinated into this cult.
     
  14. tombiasi

    tombiasi Well-Known Member

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    They would probably park it on a hill and put a Volkswagon on top
     
    Orchid likes this.
  15. emoney

    emoney Well-Known Member

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    The Viking manual will tell you to put the stabilizers down first then raise the roof.

    Seems like a frame would have to be awful weak to bend if I was turning a screw basically.
     
  16. Thox Spuddy

    Thox Spuddy Member

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    For the first time in the 12 years we owned our popup the lift system failed after we had arrived at the campground. Had to go home. The cable had slacked off and got jammed in the gears. We always set the stabs before raising and after. From now on we will lift first.
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2018

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