Winterizing?

Discussion in 'Going to the DARK SIDE' started by NorcrossFlyer, Sep 13, 2017.

  1. silvermickey2002

    silvermickey2002 Morris County, NJ

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    Before I run the pink stuff thru the pump I will blow out all the lines with my shop vac set on exhaust. I will open the "City" side faucet and outside I will depress the anti-siphon button and let the shop vac blow air thru and it does a good job at it. I don't have a hot water heater so it's a simple winterization.

    I installed a bypass valve before the pump, so then all I need to do is hook up the short hose and put the other end in the anti-freeze container and pump it thru the faucet.
     
  2. tfischer

    tfischer Well-Known Member

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    The winterizing kit should work with just about any pump as it goes in the line, not attaching directly to the pump.

    Our plumbing system is dead simple: the right faucet is for the water tank/pump and the left faucet is for the city water. So to winterize the city side, I open up that faucet and pump antifreeze (with a manual hand pump that you can get at any auto supply store) backwards from the sink to the outside (having someone hold open the check valve there) until the stream runs pink. I keep the pink stuff in the lines through the winter and flush everything out in the spring. I also pour some pink stuff down the drain.
     
  3. PammyM

    PammyM Member

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    Sorry in advance if my problem description is confusing. I purchased the Camco T-Valve winterizing kit (1st pic below) that NHlakes suggested. I put it on the same side of the pump as in NH lakes photo (2nd pic below), but instead of putting it right next to the fresh water tank, I put it right before the pump where I drew the red arrow. That fitting was just easier for me to remove. I removed the brass cap from the t-valve and hooked up the clear hose that came with the kit, to the t-valve, and put the other end in the anti-freeze, opened the TANK side faucet, turned on the pump, but it wouldn't pump the anti-freeze. I tried both positions on the T-valve, the open position and the bypass position but neither worked. I put a piece of napkin on the t-valve where the brass cap goes, and it was sucking in air, just not enough to pump out the liquid. I ended up making it work by removing the short white hose from the t-valve and put the clear hose on that side of the t-valve instead of the side of the t-valve that has the brass removable cover where it should go. I flipped the valve to the open position instead of the bypass position, as if I was going to use the fresh water tank, and it worked great to pump out the anti-freeze. Any idea why it wouldn't work with the t-valve in the by-pass position? I can't imagine there is much that could break in the brass t-valve. I thought maybe the opening inside isn't in the correct position when the brass valve is in the bypass position, but I couldn't really tell by looking at it. I did notice that the white hose between the tank and the pump is almost folded in half, putting a kink in it, but that shouldn't have mattered since I was pumping antifreeze from the bottle and not the tank. It didn't seem to affect using the fresh water tank when I was dry camping this summer. So while I got this setup to work, I kind of defeated the purpose of having a bypass t-valve installed to make things nice and quick. Any ideas? Here's one other thought.... I assumed that both sides of the T-Valve are the same since they look identical, and it doesn't matter which side faces the pump and which side faces the tank, as long as the clear tubing to suction the anitfreeze is connected to the port with the brass cover. Was I wrong? Maybe it did make a difference and I had it installed backwards?

    so this is what I tried first that didn't work...
    fresh water tank --> short white hose --> Camco T-Valve --> Pump.
    Clear hose that comes with kit connected to port on t-valve that has a brass cover on it.
    Lever flipped to bypass position. Also tried T-valve on open position. Neither worked.

    And this is what I did that did work...
    tank and white hose completely disconnected from pump.
    Clear hose that comes with kit connected to port port on t-valve that does NOT have a brass cover on it --> Opposite side of T-valve connected to pump --> Cover on T-valve shut (nothing connected to that port).
    Lever flipped to bypass position. This worked.

    Thanks! Pam

    upload_2018-10-10_15-46-48.png

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  4. tfischer

    tfischer Well-Known Member

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    Pretty sure the valve only works properly installed in one direction and not the other. The lever selects either straight through operation, or L-shaped operation (from the clear intake to the pump). When the valve is in straight-through configuration, the clear intake port is blocked, and when it's in the "L" configuration the side that goes toward the water tank is blocked.

    So if you had it backward you would have connected the pump to a blocked port, and the clear hose to the water tank when in the "L" setting.
     
  5. PammyM

    PammyM Member

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    Thanks tfischer. I guess I'll just wait till I open up the PUP in the spring and see if I connected the valve backwards.
    I just found the directions and found the C port should be connected to the intake on the pump. I wrongly assumed both A and C sides were the same.
     
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  6. silverfz

    silverfz Active Member

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    Just did mine this weekend.

    Hook my compressor via a adapter to fresh water inlet, open all the faucet and the release valve in the hot water heater.
    Open all the low drains . there are 3 on mine. all the water drains out including the fresh water holding tank
    Pour rv anti freeze in the drain pipes so the P Pipes are covered
    Pour enough into the toilet so the rubber seal is wet all winter.
    Some goes into the holding tanks which i think is okay.
    Cover the RV.. even here. i bring the cover into my house. keep it in a warm room so its manageable. climb on the roof and cover it. 33 TT so the cover is huge .
    remove the battery to the garage for trickle charge dance [1 charger but i have batteries from my riding mower, 2 motorcycle and camper. so i rotate them every few weeks]
    Cotten swabs dipped in peppermint oil for the damn mouse control
    Dryer sheets

    Used to
    By Pass the water heater
    Do alot more but now i just do the above and call it a day.
    4 yrs and still no issues.
     
    Sjm9911 likes this.
  7. Snow

    Snow Well-Known Member

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    It is actually recommended by most RV manufactures to pour enough into the holding tank to cover the dump valves for the seals and to ensure there is no water at them that can freeze and damage them... Seen a few that also recommend adding just enough pink to the fresh water tank to cover the drain there too, to prevent the drain from possibly freezing..
     
  8. silverfz

    silverfz Active Member

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    i pour enough to get some into the holding tanks. but not sure how much covers those. i do 1/2 gallon for everything and there are 3 P Pipes in the camper and 1 toilet.
    so i am sure most of it get into the tank. I have done so for 4 yrs and not had an issue. But i do live in newengland near the ocean so we have below freezing temp for say 2 to 3 months max with some warm days unlike canada.
     

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