1998 Jayco L&W Lift Issue - posts?

Tekblob

New Member
Jul 12, 2016
4
Hello all -

It's my first time posting here as I just got a new-to-me 1998 Jayco pup last week. I lucked out and got it from a family member for quite the bargain (free!).

The main issue is one of the corners doesn't lift with the crank. It's the rear driver's side corner with a rear passenger side crank. One would think it would be a simple repair... but that's not the way the world works.

After tons of research I opened up the access to the cables. I thought it was going to be simple - the end of the cable actually pulled out of the slug and somehow the coil was pulled all the way out of the track. It was apparently a violent malfunction whose aftermath probably was not helped by the fact that it kept getting used with the 4 corner'd plate being pulled by 3 corners, causing the failed cable connection to be wrapped in a circle around the back of its mount, with the other 3 functioning corners being bent quite severely.

Either way, I thought I could simply reinstall the coil, repair the cable, and I'd be on my way with a band-aid fix for my already planned camping trip next weekend (was going to tent camp but now we have a camper!).

So my research, swearing, and guess/check repair methods basically came down to two basic repairs:

1) I cut off the old detached cable, formed a new loop on the end (thimble & wire rope clips), added a few lengths of chain to make up for the lost cable making the loop, and shackled it all up with a 1/4" 880lb carabiner I had laying around to a new galvanized eye-bolt (without the space that most videos solder shut - it's a full steel circle).
2) I pulled the coil/push spring all the way out of the corner, fed it through the floor track, and followed it by the cable reinstalled in the slug that I reformed from it bending it pulling out.
3) Lastly I put tension on the roof and adjusted my new cable length to cause that corner to rise with the rest.

Obviously since I got to step #3 it worked... but apparently it was short lived. I lowered the top down 100% by the crank with a few cranks back up here and there to tuck in the sides (my second time ever lowering a pup). Everything seemed to be okay. I didn't get to test it again until today (2 days later). I was cranking it up and got about 2.5ft when that corner made a faint "pop" and lost all tension. I got it back up with the help of the SO but I'm puzzled. The cable is still attached as well as the coil. My only thought is my 4 stage lift post has failed somehow. The coil is pushing the entire post out of the side of the pup instead of putting tension on the telescoping arms to raise the top.

See the pictures attached... is this an accurate diagnosis? I can raise and lower the entire lift post and can hear the coil moving when I do. Is there any way to mount this post in place without taking off the riveted on plate that stretches the entire side of the camper and holds the canvas walls on?

Picture of cables as I found them - http://i.imgur.com/xYnLY77.jpg
Picture of post lifting out (this is as far down as I can get it to go currently) - http://i.imgur.com/bRNOk0N.jpg
 

Sneezer

Super Active Member
Aug 8, 2015
3,121
DFW, TX
I have a 99 and my posts all move as well. When raising the roof I have to check them about halfway and slide them back into place. I have sprayed them with dry silicone spray but still have to check them. The coil inside is the actual lift. The post does not lock into place anywhere, it is just a telescoping channel to protect the coil.

If it lost tension did the cable come off the winch pulley?
 

Tekblob

New Member
Jul 12, 2016
4
Cable is still on the pulley and everything looked fine. Is there any way the coil could end up getting out of place?

It seems like a simple system I'm not sure how it can be causing so many issues... it doesn't help my troubleshooting that the water heater makes it so hard to reach into the corner.

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

Sneezer

Super Active Member
Aug 8, 2015
3,121
DFW, TX
Here is a good diagram I found. Hope it helps. I haven't dug into mine much beyond getting a basic understanding of the system as this was my first PUP as well.

Did you lose tension at just the one corner, or all 4?
 

Dubbya

Wherever you go, there you are...
Aug 2, 2011
6,161
Steinbach, MB
Based on what I'm seeing in the photos, straightening the threaded cable ends is likely to weaken them plus it'll mess with the thread depth making the cables hard to adjust. You might get lucky and be able to straighten them but be very careful not to break them.

Alternatively, you could replace all of them with eye bolts, cable sleeves and cable loops like they did before they started using threaded cable ends.

Regarding your lift post, I suspect that the rivet that's supposed to be stuck in the end of the push rod (spring) has become lodged inside the top section of the lift post so that the push rod can't possibly extend fully. This is common when the push rod is removed from the lift post or if it falls out suddenly such as would occur when a cable breaks. To fish out the rivet, slide the push rod up and down inside the lift post until the rivet drops out.

Here's the Jayco 1998 lift system manual

Here's the L&W Lift System Replacement manual. This shows you more detailed views of the thrust bearing and push rod rivet.

BTW, there are a few tricks to making this system run smoothly.

[list type=decimal]
[*]Ensure that you never overcrank when lowering the roof. You must leave some tension on the cables at all times. Lower just enough to close the latches then crank back up a click or two.
[*]Make sure to lubricate the thrust bearing between the harness square and the crimped end of the main winch cable so that the cables don't wrap around each other while raising/lowering the roof. The harness square should spin relatively easily. It may not be smooth but the harness square should turn often enough to keep the cables from wrapping up.
[*]When attaching the cable end to the drive slug, make certain to put the cable on the correct corner of the drive slug so that it won't bind and the cable can draw it through the floor track properly.
[*]Make sure there's some grease inside the floor track so that the drive slug and push rod slide easily.
[*]Make sure to inspect the cable routing and pulleys a few times each season to ensure that the cables are running true and that the pulleys are well lubricated and in good condition.
[/list]

If you need new pulleys, avoid buying nylon replacements. You can find metal screen door rollers with ball bearings that are much more durable and less expensive at HomeDepot.
 

Hunt3rF

Member
Dec 31, 2020
18
State of Confusion
Based on what I'm seeing in the photos, straightening the threaded cable ends is likely to weaken them plus it'll mess with the thread depth making the cables hard to adjust. You might get lucky and be able to straighten them but be very careful not to break them.

Alternatively, you could replace all of them with eye bolts, cable sleeves and cable loops like they did before they started using threaded cable ends.

Regarding your lift post, I suspect that the rivet that's supposed to be stuck in the end of the push rod (spring) has become lodged inside the top section of the lift post so that the push rod can't possibly extend fully. This is common when the push rod is removed from the lift post or if it falls out suddenly such as would occur when a cable breaks. To fish out the rivet, slide the push rod up and down inside the lift post until the rivet drops out.

Here's the Jayco 1998 lift system manual

Here's the L&W Lift System Replacement manual. This shows you more detailed views of the thrust bearing and push rod rivet.

BTW, there are a few tricks to making this system run smoothly.

[list type=decimal]
[*]Ensure that you never overcrank when lowering the roof. You must leave some tension on the cables at all times. Lower just enough to close the latches then crank back up a click or two.
[*]Make sure to lubricate the thrust bearing between the harness square and the crimped end of the main winch cable so that the cables don't wrap around each other while raising/lowering the roof. The harness square should spin relatively easily. It may not be smooth but the harness square should turn often enough to keep the cables from wrapping up.
[*]When attaching the cable end to the drive slug, make certain to put the cable on the correct corner of the drive slug so that it won't bind and the cable can draw it through the floor track properly.
[*]Make sure there's some grease inside the floor track so that the drive slug and push rod slide easily.
[*]Make sure to inspect the cable routing and pulleys a few times each season to ensure that the cables are running true and that the pulleys are well lubricated and in good condition.
[/list]

If you need new pulleys, avoid buying nylon replacements. You can find metal screen door rollers with ball bearings that are much more durable and less expensive at HomeDepot.
I know this was posted a few years back, but does someone have a replacement link to these two lift manuals?
 

Hunt3rF

Member
Dec 31, 2020
18
State of Confusion
I believe it is.. although I cannot tell. I have been searching through old forums and have found a few repair "manuals" that may be helpful. I have not yet found the same situation that I have, or at least it seems that way. Maybe you can save me weeks of reading the forums and searching... I have a Jayco 1406 and I think it was either cranked too far up or down. It cranked up just fine before I bought it, then when I got it home I cranked a few turns and as the cable starts to get tight, it releases tension. I pulled the inside access panels on the front (under the shoilet) and could see the winch start to tighten as it was cranked, then it would quickly spring back to a "relaxed" state. On the old boat winches there was a lever that kept the cable from unwinding as you cranked it in, then you would flip the lever and allow the boat slack to unload.. is this the same? Does it have a spring to keep tension on the lever that might have broken? If so, is the only way to get to that winch by removing the shoilet? :-|
My roof was stuck in the down position but now have it raised and blocked.
 

Arruba

Super Active Member
Nov 28, 2014
1,011
Central Oregon
Sorry I didn’t immediately reply.

As for shoilet removal, I don’t know. I don’t have one in my trailer.

As for the winch, mine doesn’t a use prawl brake like a boat. It uses a friction brake. Off the top of head I don’t remember exactly how it works. What I do know is if the crank receiver isn’t tight to the winch the winch won’t hold tension. At least mine doesn’t.

Good luck.
 
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