Start with the boiler chimney including the section inside the boiler, it needs to be clear of items such as mud wasp nests
3 way fridge on propane doesn't cool
- Thread starter Cheri B.
- Start date
Thank you. Today we verified it is all clean and looks like it's never been used. Heat is coming out the top, but the refrigerator is still not cooling. We replaced a 1 amp fuse that recently blew (long story, I know why) and it went to the propane detector so I was really hoping that was it and it didn't fix it. We also hooked up the battery hoping that something in that was required (I read varying things) but that hasn't worked either. We verified that the line from the propane tank to the refrigerator does not have a valve that needs to be opened. It works on electricity and now I've also verified it works on 9V when hooked to battery. It just doesn't work on propane. Any other advice welcome!!!
Grandpa Don
Super Active Member
I'm out of ideas too. But I still think it will end up being something to do with that flame and burner. It just doesn't look right to me.
Question: How long does it take to cool down with 12 volts or Shore Power? And, how long do you wait for the cooling process to begin when trying on propane, e.g., minutes, hours, overnight?
Yes, warm air is coming out of the top exhaust chimney area. I am working on confirming right now, but it may be cooling 5 degrees (from 65 to 60) on Propane. It cools straight down to 35 and below on 9 battery and on electricity. My propane regulator is less than a year old so it shouldn't be that, but I'm running out of ideas.
Is this what I buy for that? https://www.homedepot.com/p/General...nnect-Fitting-and-Carry-Case-GPK035/202515833 . If not, can you suggest what to buy?
Yes, that is one kind that will work. You can also find directions on how to make a homemade one.
Fortunately, my TT has a manometer gauge that measure water column plumbed into the has line right before my fridge....All rv gas systems should come this way....I can easily adjust my regulator.
Fortunately, my TT has a manometer gauge that measure water column plumbed into the has line right before my fridge....All rv gas systems should come this way....I can easily adjust my regulator.
- Nov 30, 2012
- 2,207
My experience is the fridge will actually run colder on propane.
Sherronlee
Active Member
May be a silly question but is "7" the coldest or the warmest? Maybe try it at "1" instead???
Hi Cheri,
I had this same problem.
Propane Fridge not cooling
It turned out it was the burner assembly that was dirty, not the orifice. I had flame and heat from the chimney, but no cooling. Once I took out the burner (the long rectangular piece that the orifice fits into, pic here) and cleaned it with a bottle brush, all was well.
Hopefully this works for you.
I had this same problem.
Propane Fridge not cooling
It turned out it was the burner assembly that was dirty, not the orifice. I had flame and heat from the chimney, but no cooling. Once I took out the burner (the long rectangular piece that the orifice fits into, pic here) and cleaned it with a bottle brush, all was well.
Hopefully this works for you.
Grandpa Don
Super Active Member
The numbered dial is for Shore Power (AC) only. It has no effect on the propane temperature. On propane, the only dial that matters is the one marked Low-Med-High. Set it to High.
Inspect the burner for rust partially blocking any of the slots. Mine stopped working on a trip last year and I found that to be the cause. Careful removing the rust is a temporary fix but replacing is best
Chaaalie
Member
- Mar 16, 2016
- 61
Silly note here … I have a 2000 Viking with the same (or very similar) unit in it … being in Florida, my challenge is usually managing the heat exchange — so I have an additional thermostat and fan to evacuate warm air above the chimney (and a baffle to manage cooler air below.) The reason I mention this is the basic physics of what is going on here — is the heat going to the right place? My unit has a longer “skirt” at the bottom, and seeing the pilot or burner flame is much more difficult to see — but it also means the heat is contained and rises through the coils and chimney … is your chimney hot to touch? (Be careful! An IR temp gun is nice for this!) is the temp warm all the way up? Can the warm air escape? IIRC there is also a heat sync that wants to SHED heat (so if you are trapping too much propane heat, the heat sync is much less effective … I believe it runs much warmer on the hot side with propane.) Remember it is the physics of absorbing heat then shedding that heat in the refrigerant that results in the the icebox effect — not compression/expansion like a normal fridge … so getting rid of the heat from the burner is equally as important!
I may be way off base here, but step back and examine the total airflow around and through the unit. That may be your answer … I know that is key when we’re camping in hot temps!
I may be way off base here, but step back and examine the total airflow around and through the unit. That may be your answer … I know that is key when we’re camping in hot temps!
Grandpa Don
Super Active Member
You know that is a good point. I was assuming that the cover was removed just to take a photo of the flame. Maybe it is missing altogether.
The flame looks good. I you haven't checked the flu you should. I'm not sure the diameter, but you might be able to buy a boresnake and run it through. Bore snakes are for cleaning gun barrels. They have a weighted string on one end. You drop that end through and pull the cleaning part through. They make them up to 12ga shotgun size. The right size bore snake should do a great job of cleaning the flu.
These refrigerator areas are not well ventilated. A fan for better ventilation might help. If the side of the camper is on is getting direct sunlight, then good luck!
Frankly, get yourself a 12v compressor frig/cooler and use it. They cool within an hour and use very little electricity. It is easy to buy a portable solar panel to run it and keep the battery charged. I have a 2020 Flagstaff HW29sc and I pulled out the frig and got a new one from Recpro. I also have a cooler style 12V fridge that I keep adult beverages in. I already had a 100ah LiFePo4 battery. So I have juice to go for nearly 20 hours. I put a couple of solar panels on the roof that pull in a bit more than the fridges use and I have a generator to make sure that the batteries don't go dead. I need the 110v for the microwave and the heated mattress pad in the spring and fall. It all works out well. After a bit more experience with the solar panels I may had a 3rd panel.
These refrigerator areas are not well ventilated. A fan for better ventilation might help. If the side of the camper is on is getting direct sunlight, then good luck!
Frankly, get yourself a 12v compressor frig/cooler and use it. They cool within an hour and use very little electricity. It is easy to buy a portable solar panel to run it and keep the battery charged. I have a 2020 Flagstaff HW29sc and I pulled out the frig and got a new one from Recpro. I also have a cooler style 12V fridge that I keep adult beverages in. I already had a 100ah LiFePo4 battery. So I have juice to go for nearly 20 hours. I put a couple of solar panels on the roof that pull in a bit more than the fridges use and I have a generator to make sure that the batteries don't go dead. I need the 110v for the microwave and the heated mattress pad in the spring and fall. It all works out well. After a bit more experience with the solar panels I may had a 3rd panel.
