BedWedgies

ChocoChock01

On the road aagaain See Rallies below;
Mar 7, 2012
4,029
make sure you grind the excess material on the bottom side.
It should be flush with the rail, otherwise it will chew up the alum. guide.
 

Theblindlady

Member
Jul 13, 2012
33
Akron, Ohio
Does any know if these ends will go on a 1997 Palamino? There weren't any on it when I bought it so I don't really know. I would guess that having those missing is part of my problem with the bed rails not riding correctly.
 

ChocoChock01

On the road aagaain See Rallies below;
Mar 7, 2012
4,029
measure the ht x width of your rails and send it to them. I measure my rails when was grinding the excess material off and will try to find what those meas. are.
 

ChocoChock01

On the road aagaain See Rallies below;
Mar 7, 2012
4,029
I am still trying to come up with a solution to the Aluminum Wedgies grinding the trailer rails. They currently I put rulers under the rail ends to cushion, but they tend to fall out during travel.

Next is to cover the wedgies with rubber inner tubes because it is a pain to get inside the trailer just before closing to place the wood rulers.
 

ghacker

Super Active Member
Nov 8, 2009
3,437
ChocoChock01 said:
I am still trying to come up with a solution to the Aluminum Wedgies grinding the trailer rails. They currently I put rulers under the rail ends to cushion, but they tend to fall out during travel.

Next is to cover the wedgies with rubber inner tubes because it is a pain to get inside the trailer just before closing to place the wood rulers.
Put down an adhesive backed strip of UHMW plastic. Very slick and durable.
 

ChocoChock01

On the road aagaain See Rallies below;
Mar 7, 2012
4,029
Thanks for the suggestion, I was looking for a different angle to attack the problem.
 

SDMark

New Member
Apr 6, 2013
6
Just purchased a set of wedgies and ends. Unfortunately, I missed the sale. Looking forward to fixing the problem just the same!!
 

ChocoChock01

On the road aagaain See Rallies below;
Mar 7, 2012
4,029
Put down an adhesive backed strip of UHMW plastic. Very slick and durable.

Just received this tape will install this weekend and report the results.

I have already ground down a substancial amount of material so hope this will prevent anymore grinding on the rail!
 

EV2

Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
462
Glad the USPS could help us get them to you quickly. Thanks for your business!
 

NE_FL_CAMPERS

Active Member
May 18, 2007
175
Jacksonville,Fl
$80.00 ??? seems a little pricey! Just curious. What can't they be cut from aluminum stock, much cheaper and stronger, they do not have to be shaped like the OEM items. Think I'll have to give it a try since my old ones show signs of damage.
Sorry, don't mean to be negative but the price just seems a little to high. :(
 

bldmtnrider

Active Member
Aug 28, 2014
337
Reviving an old topic here, but are these still available at his website? Looking to get a set if they are but haven't seen any activity here or on his website for a few years regarding the wedgies
 

bldmtnrider

Active Member
Aug 28, 2014
337
smit1088 said:
There are a bunch of the OEM for sale ~$8 on ebay.

Ya, I've seen those, but I'd rather fix something once and enjoy the camper rather than buying them every year or so.
 

EV2

Active Member
Mar 18, 2008
462
Still available and selling online at popupmods.com
Install and forget.
 

smit1088

Super Active Member
Mar 15, 2011
1,582
Stillwater, MN
I have a 2000 Coleman and 1 wedge has been replaced in it since new. I would question the cause if you are replacing them every year or so. Is it operator error or is there an alignment issue?

BTW - the wedgies also come with a different set of potential problems. Look through the forum and you will find rubbing and metal shaving issues. You will also find A LOT of happy customers.
 

Heartman_wa

Super Active Member
Mar 5, 2006
1,703
Tacoma WA.
I have never been convinced that the OEM part was under engineered I believe it was a sacrificial part cheaper and easier to replace the a worn bed rail as for the rail end pieces they absorb the shook of the bed instead of it being transfered to the bolt holes and elongating them.
 

Camp-N-Nuts

KrustyKamper
Aug 9, 2011
2,025
Central WI
smit1088 said:
I have a 2000 Coleman and 1 wedge has been replaced in it since new. I would question the cause if you are replacing them every year or so. Is it operator error or is there an alignment issue?

BTW - the wedgies also come with a different set of potential problems. Look through the forum and you will find rubbing and metal shaving issues. You will also find A LOT of happy customers.

...and then there's the cost! [:O] My opinion, it is price gouging...pure and simple. [2C]
 

swordfish

Super Active Member
Sep 27, 2010
2,231
smit1088 said:
I have a 2000 Coleman and 1 wedge has been replaced in it since new. I would question the cause if you are replacing them every year or so. Is it operator error or is there an alignment issue?

BTW - the wedgies also come with a different set of potential problems. Look through the forum and you will find rubbing and metal shaving issues. You will also find A LOT of happy customers.
I think it is both operator and alignment issues. On the curb side, the front bunk end goes into the the rear bunk rail housing bracket. I see a lot of black rubbing marks on the under side of the front bunk end as well as inside the rear railing housing bracket. It takes just one strong push to crack the wedge if they are not align perfectly.
On the street side, both railings share the same one continuous bracket. They can hit each other if pushing too hard causing a crack of the wedges. There may be a proper way to push the bunks in. For example, push both bunks half way in and finish one bunk then the other. If you have a partner, have him or her push up the wedge of the front bunk while you slowly push the railing into the housing.

Heartman_wa said:
I have never been convinced that the OEM part was under engineered I believe it was a sacrificial part cheaper and easier to replace the a worn bed rail as for the rail end pieces they absorb the shook of the bed instead of it being transferred to the bolt holes and elongating them.

It appears that way, but not by design I don't think. It was under engineered for sure or we would not have this issue.
I wonder if a piece of hard wood is a good replacement material for the plastic wedge. I can do that on a scroll saw.
 




Top