Bumper mount hitch receiver

7

72c10

New Member
Feb 22, 2022
6
Salt Lake City, UT
I'm open to suggestions, critique and scolding on this one. Mind you: I have no background in engineering, but had the safety of my family's and other motorists in mind when doing this. My biggest objective in this was to make it safe and secure, so my stuff doesn't go flying off on the roadway and pose a danger to us and especially anyone else behind me.

This is on an '07 StarCraft 1701.

So, we want to take our 5yo twins' kid bikes camping with us. If we tow with my wife's Durango, we'll have room, but if we take the Jeep Wrangler - nope.

I've been contemplating and planning all winter what I'd do. And, after carefully planning I came up with this...

I have a spare tire that is mounted on the back, which covered the bumper partially, but I wanted to get this bumper mounted hitch receiver.

Screenshot_20230609-225444.png

As I took my spare tire cover off, I realized it only had 2 bolts holding it in, unlike my Jeep that had 3. This meant, if be able to rotate it. It worked when I tried it, as it would still allow the bed to slide out and cleared the bumper for the hitch receiver unit.

IMG_2670.jpg

Now that it worked, I mounted the receiver and realized I was not comfortable with the security of the thin 1/8 bumper metall. So, I got a piece of steel that spanned the width of the inner bumper to serve as a giant washer for the mounting bolts and to distribute the weight/pressure to the span of the bumper.

IMG_2671.jpg

After this, I mounted the sucker and it looked great. But, I wanted it more security. If I put a bike rack (don't have one) or out cargo hitch tray on it, the "pull" would be downward, so I thought of the top of the bumper. And saw two points on each side of the top of bumper where it is welded to the frame and saw that the top wasn't welded to the frame.


IMG_20230609_132241267~2.jpg
(Right side, looking from the top, left side is the same)

So, called a good friend that welded and he told me to head over. As I was simulating weight on the hitch receiver, I thought of something else... I thought I'd add support going from the bottom of the bumper, right where the receiver was mounted and welding 2 pieces of steel to the camper frame.

IMG_2674.jpg IMG_2675.jpg

After mounting it all up, this is what it looked like.

IMG_2679.jpg

IMG_2678.jpg

IMG_2680.jpg

I put the kidds' bike on it and then sat my 220lbs butt on it and the bumper flexed a bit... but, weirdly enough it was pretty secure. I added ratchet straps from the cargo tray frame, above the top of the bumper and attached it to the frame of the camper and it made it better. I may add braces on the top of the bumper and to the frame for added piece of mind later on when I have another few hours to spare.

And, if I don't like the set up after trying it, if I get sway (I shouldn't with the minimal weight) or I think it's to dangerous... It'll come off. But, I thought I'd give it a whirl.

All of this cost me about $50 in materialls, including the paint. Let me know your thoughts and experience. I couldn't find much on Google or YouTube for this, so I was on my own.
 
Last edited:
Snow

Snow

Super Active Member
Jul 19, 2007
12,449
Wish had posted your idea before you did all that work. Because this unfortunately isn't done correctly or safely. I'll explain.

The frames and the rear bumpers on popups are very light and flimsy as you noticed. So inorder to do this one must use decent boxed material to tie the entire bumper into the two main frame rails (take note of the weight of the material used, as you'll need to know that for a later step). Next the receiver you installed should be welded into the above mentioned re-enforcing material not attached solely to the bumper (unless you hate the bumper and want it to fall off).

Once you have all the added box tube and receiver welded in, you now need to account for all the weight added and what you will add to the rear rack and offset all of that weight by adding weight forward of the axle equal too what's been added aft of the axle. EXAMPLE, you add 50lbs of box framing and receiver after of the axle, you have to add 50lbs of permanent weight forward if the axle, when you add the rack and bikes, you have to add or shift an equal amount of weight forward of the axle and remove or shift again when you are not using the rack.

This is to reduce sway and keep the trailer balanced, however this is added weight and it's all added tongue weight, if you are close to the vehicles limits prior to adding all this, you may find you are overtone limits when done. You also have to consider the trailers axle rating, cargo carrying capacity and GVWR . Everything you added permanently has to be subtracted from the CCC of the trailer. Note some popups only have a 300lb CCC, which would now be reduced by 50lbs.

In short, can it be done ? YES, but done correctly. Should it be done? NO because 90% of the time it's not done correctly.

Don't go comparing popups to TTs, HTTs or 5th wheels, they have a much stronger frame build right from the start and many are designed to have a class 2 receiver bolted right to the frame.
 
7

72c10

New Member
Feb 22, 2022
6
Salt Lake City, UT
I
Snow said:
Wish had posted your idea before you did all that work. Because this unfortunately isn't done correctly or safely. I'll explain.

The frames and the rear bumpers on popups are very light and flimsy as you noticed. So inorder to do this one must use decent boxed material to tie the entire bumper into the two main frame rails (take note of the weight of the material used, as you'll need to know that for a later step). Next the receiver you installed should be welded into the above mentioned re-enforcing material not attached solely to the bumper (unless you hate the bumper and want it to fall off).

Once you have all the added box tube and receiver welded in, you now need to account for all the weight added and what you will add to the rear rack and offset all of that weight by adding weight forward of the axle equal too what's been added aft of the axle. EXAMPLE, you add 50lbs of box framing and receiver after of the axle, you have to add 50lbs of permanent weight forward if the axle, when you add the rack and bikes, you have to add or shift an equal amount of weight forward of the axle and remove or shift again when you are not using the rack.

This is to reduce sway and keep the trailer balanced, however this is added weight and it's all added tongue weight, if you are close to the vehicles limits prior to adding all this, you may find you are overtone limits when done. You also have to consider the trailers axle rating, cargo carrying capacity and GVWR . Everything you added permanently has to be subtracted from the CCC of the trailer. Note some popups only have a 300lb CCC, which would now be reduced by 50lbs.

In short, can it be done ? YES, but done correctly. Should it be done? NO because 90% of the time it's not done correctly.

Don't go comparing popups to TTs, HTTs or 5th wheels, they have a much stronger frame build right from the start and many are designed to have a class 2 receiver bolted right to the frame.
Click to expand...
I do wish I had posted this before hand. Makes sense. I can return the hitch.

Roof rack? Any issues with those and leak risks? Maybe I'll look into that.
 
S

Sjm9911

Super Active Member
May 31, 2018
13,639
Nj
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7

72c10

New Member
Feb 22, 2022
6
Salt Lake City, UT
Sjm9911 said:
Do you have riom for this?
Click to expand...
I do and considered it. However, my spare tire mount is bolted (2 bolts) and screwed on (1 screw) to the back of my trailer box at the top and 1 screw on the bottom. Think it would support 2 kids bikes and the rack?
IMG_2678.jpg
 
Last edited:
7

72c10

New Member
Feb 22, 2022
6
Salt Lake City, UT
At the end of the day, safety is paramount, as is damaging the camper. I think I'll goo back too square one. The work was fine and it was fun trying. But, it's not a necessity too carry the bikes on the trailer.
 
davido

davido

Super Active Member
Jul 17, 2014
1,546
72c10 said:
I

I do wish I had posted this before hand. Makes sense. I can return the hitch.

Roof rack? Any issues with those and leak risks? Maybe I'll look into that.
Click to expand...

I installed a roof rack. It is one that sits on the vertical sides of the roof. You have to drill eight holes. I drilled, filled with caulking, and used roofing-style screws that have a rubber grommet at the top. In the four years since I did the job, I haven't had any leaks around the rack, and it's very strong.

etrailer has multiple options for roof racks. To me this is the best way to go.

Leaks: These eight screws aren't the only holes in your roof. Do it right and they'll be reliable. The air conditioner and roof vent are more fragile holes in the roof. And the edge of the roof is where the most risk is, anyway. I had to fix a small delamination that occurred because caulking at the edge trim area developed a leak. Just keep on top of maintenance and you're fine.
 
Apache05

Apache05

Member
Sep 26, 2020
82
72c10 said:
I

I do wish I had posted this before hand. Makes sense. I can return the hitch.

Roof rack? Any issues with those and leak risks? Maybe I'll look into that.
Click to expand...
My older pop up has bars for the kayak racks, it never leaked, they were on there when I bought it. I have had it for about 5 years..selling it as we gutted it to get rid of sink, stove and heater..never used them started to redo but found a hardside Im now selling..was going to take out the shower toilet combo..not sure I want to go thru all that again though I will never ever use it..
 
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