Dometic Fridge issues; advice needed

Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
That's what I was thinking --- and the ground should still be showing up, at least a little.

If I cooked mine I'd replace it with a compressor fridge.
We have a two year warranty on our Fridge w/ Dometic, so I'm hoping they step up, otherwise that's exactly what I'll be looking into. Fortunately, we don't really trust ANYTHING on our camper, so we always have contingency plans. The gas and the water pump also gave us issues on this 2 week trip. Those both sorted themselves out along the way, just in time for the beginning of monsoon season in the Rockies... but being adaptable and resilient is the name of the game on such trips.
 

Dave2514g

Active Member
Sep 2, 2019
263
Ontario, Canada
When you check for the voltage at the terminal block where the original black wire fell out, make sure that you check on the opposing side where the hot wire leading to the fridge is fastened. The black wire may have fallen out due to the screw on the terminal being stripped. If it still doesn't have a good tight connection there you may not have power on the other side of the terminal block leading to the fridge.
 

Kdague

Member
Sep 15, 2020
52
To recap check for 12v dc from the terminal that was loose to the white wire terminal next to it. And then do the same just above that from the red wire terminal to the black wire one next to it. If u have volts there. Then check at the 3volt and 5 volt fuses for AC power 120 volts. Find a good ground and check both sides of each fuse with one lead and the other to ground. You’ll need Shore Power plugged in to do that. Next question is. Does the fridge work with Shore Power? I read the whole thread but didn’t see that mentioned(I may have over looked it). If all those check out good. I would say u have a bad board. I’ll add a wiring diagram I found online. It doesn’t really show u the path of everything through the board but maybe someone else on here can interpret a little better. 2C0AB06F-28E1-4E52-8670-8AD9F9C4263F.png
 

Kdague

Member
Sep 15, 2020
52
Also, it’s hard for me to tell but, it looks like there are 2 boards. The second one looks like it has a 3 amp and 5amp fuse on the 12 volt side. Where the board u showed us has fuses on the 120 volt side. But I don’t see that board in any of my searches. May need to follow some wires and or dig a little deeper and just trace the wires according to the diagram.
 

Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
When you check for the voltage at the terminal block where the original black wire fell out, make sure that you check on the opposing side where the hot wire leading to the fridge is fastened. The black wire may have fallen out due to the screw on the terminal being stripped. If it still doesn't have a good tight connection there you may not have power on the other side of the terminal block leading to the fridge.
Thanks for pointing this out. I got 12.9 reading on both sides. I opened the control panel (where the on button is) but wasn't sure where to even try to get a reading. There's all kinds of different colored wires going into a board there, none with uninsulated wire from which to get a reading. See pic attached.
 

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Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
To recap check for 12v dc from the terminal that was loose to the white wire terminal next to it. And then do the same just above that from the red wire terminal to the black wire one next to it. If u have volts there. Then check at the 3volt and 5 volt fuses for AC power 120 volts. Find a good ground and check both sides of each fuse with one lead and the other to ground. You’ll need Shore Power plugged in to do that. Next question is. Does the fridge work with Shore Power? I read the whole thread but didn’t see that mentioned(I may have over looked it). If all those check out good. I would say u have a bad board. I’ll add a wiring diagram I found online. It doesn’t really show u the path of everything through the board but maybe someone else on here can interpret a little better. View attachment 85517
Thanks. I have the diagram you posted in my manual. Fridge does not turn on with or without Shore Power. But the dometic rep told me that the on/off switch is controlled by DC, so that wouldn't determine much anyways. I very much appreciate the collective efforts here to help. Thanks all!
 

Kdague

Member
Sep 15, 2020
52
Yeah think that’s your button display on the other side maybe. I doubt that’s it. Still looking at diagram and trying to figure out what everything is doing. The diagram may be the same. But it looks like the board may have been changed. Cause if I look for that part online the board looks a little diff than yours.
 

Kdague

Member
Sep 15, 2020
52
Yep. Looks like the little 3 amp fuse is your control system and it runs 12 volts through it. If You test for dc power on both sides of that fuse and have 12 volts with one lead to ground. Then the board is most likely your problem. The 30 amp fuse is for the DC heater and the 5 amp fuse is for the AC heater. Also your right the unit has to have a minimum of 9.5 volts dc in order for it to work. A6E962F1-5CC2-4AFD-8366-99372C2EF713.png
 

Kdague

Member
Sep 15, 2020
52
One last thing. I don’t see one in the diagram but, look on the flue for something like in the pics I’ll post. And if u see one, try and push the little button to reset it. Also I’ll shut up now. I keep thinking about more troubleshooting stuff. Hope that helps. A5EFE608-E8AE-411A-BB54-66822F1D6537.png C3903E8A-8ABE-44C3-8186-EF0175FBB0A1.png
 

Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
One last thing. I don’t see one in the diagram but, look on the flue for something like in the pics I’ll post. And if u see one, try and push the little button to reset it. Also I’ll shut up now. I keep thinking about more troubleshooting stuff. Hope that helps. View attachment 85522 View attachment 85523
Thanks. I'll look for that. I saw a video on YT that mentioned this.

Edit: I searched for this, but did not find anything similar on my fridge, unfortunately. I tested voltage at the 3 amp fuse as you rec'd, and it's a solid 12.89.

I'll attach a more complete picture of my control panel (I've been imprecise w/ my language: control panel = black box w/ 3 amp and 5 amp fuses, accessed via lower of two panels on exterior of camper, behind the fridge, whereas button display = where on/off switch is... the part that seems to have no power for me). I'm leaving for a month-long research / pleasure travel trip to Spain and Germany tomorrow, so I won't be able to enact any recommendations I find here during July, but I'll definitely give any a go when I return. I am contemplating a return to the Rockies in August before my fall semester starts, so I'd love to have a functioning fridge instead of a weird storage unit named "dometic". It's time to cover my camper and pack my bags at this point! I appreciate everyone's help very, very much.
 

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Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
Hey Ryan, while we've got your attention and your hands are already dirty, pop the filter off your Command Air and wash it. I was amazed how much dust and crud got to mine in a year. It pops off really easy --- which is good --- because you need a slinky arm to get to it.
I just washed my hands, Bill! I'm afraid I crossed that mental threshold. My mind is focused on tomorrow's adventure, and my camper adventures are on hold. I'll do this in August though. Where does one access the Command air's filter? Luckily, I have orangutan arms, so I may be able to get it!
 

Hilldweller

Super Active Member
Mar 2, 2021
978
Hog Waller, GA
... I'll do this in August though. Where does one access the Command air's filter? Luckily, I have orangutan arms, so I may be able to get it!
All the way on the right side of the box toward the rear. It has sort of a ridge at the top that you can sort of grab; pull it straight back toward the water tank. It comes free of its two tabs easily and pops back on just as easily after you wash it.
I had 2 pounds of Arizona in there...
 

Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
All the way on the right side of the box toward the rear. It has sort of a ridge at the top that you can sort of grab; pull it straight back toward the water tank. It comes free of its two tabs easily and pops back on just as easily after you wash it.
I had 2 pounds of Arizona in there...
I'm sure I have two pounds of CO in mine. The much needed monsoon season started our last 5 days there and things got muddy quick.
 

Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
All the way on the right side of the box toward the rear. It has sort of a ridge at the top that you can sort of grab; pull it straight back toward the water tank. It comes free of its two tabs easily and pops back on just as easily after you wash it.
I had 2 pounds of Arizona in there...
This took me 10 second to remove and nearly 10 minutes to put back in place. Holding the weight of the bed on my shoulders like doing squats in the gym while trying to get the tabs lined up while trying to not scratch my watch on the insanely tight space... finally got it back in. Mine was clean, but glad to know where this is and how to do it now.

Update on Fridge situation: I found a highly rated mobile RV mechanic who will come this week to take a look. He thinks the control board may be cooked and that Dometic may or may not cover the replacement under warranty, depending on what we find. I will have him look at the commode too, whose cassette has never really seated securely and the display always indicates that it is not in position. I'll be watching over the mechanic's shoulder. Half of what I'm paying for is to learn. Check that, 75%.
 

Hilldweller

Super Active Member
Mar 2, 2021
978
Hog Waller, GA
This took me 10 second to remove and nearly 10 minutes to put back in place. Holding the weight of the bed on my shoulders like doing squats in the gym while trying to get the tabs lined up while trying to not scratch my watch on the insanely tight space... finally got it back in. Mine was clean, but glad to know where this is and how to do it now.

Update on Fridge situation: I found a highly rated mobile RV mechanic who will come this week to take a look. He thinks the control board may be cooked and that Dometic may or may not cover the replacement under warranty, depending on what we find. I will have him look at the commode too, whose cassette has never really seated securely and the display always indicates that it is not in position. I'll be watching over the mechanic's shoulder. Half of what I'm paying for is to learn. Check that, 75%.
Video tape the shitter repair if you can. Mine works okay but when the light goes off for half full it's actually all the way full.
 

Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
Video tape the shitter repair if you can. Mine works okay but when the light goes off for half full it's actually all the way full.
Will do. The mechanic said it might be a control board issue as well, but as far as I'm aware, there's no such thing on this cassette toilet, just a micro sensor. The manual we have for it is comically useless. Less comical, but equally frustrating is the way the water line is tied in, blocking the cassette. Is this how yours is? Or does mine look off? See posted pic.
 

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Hilldweller

Super Active Member
Mar 2, 2021
978
Hog Waller, GA
Will do. The mechanic said it might be a control board issue as well, but as far as I'm aware, there's no such thing on this cassette toilet, just a micro sensor. The manual we have for it is comically useless. Less comical, but equally frustrating is the way the water line is tied in, blocking the cassette. Is this how yours is? Or does mine look off? See posted pic.
Mine is almost as bad as that. You have to jigger it to the side to take the shitter out. And every time I tow the trailer the shitter comes loose and I have to give it a nudge back into place. It's just become part of the set-up procedure now.
 

Campeador

Active Member
May 22, 2021
140
Fort Worth, TX
Mine is almost as bad as that. You have to jigger it to the side to take the shitter out. And every time I tow the trailer the shitter comes loose and I have to give it a nudge back into place. It's just become part of the set-up procedure now.
I've essentially come to the conclusion that our Aliners are simply not meant for dirt roads. They are very, very light duty. I say this because during the academic year we camp in state parks in TX, all of which have paved roads leading to them and they are full hookup sites and we never have problems. In the summers we like to camp in National Forest sites in the Rockies, many of them with 5 or so miles of dirt roads for the final stretch, and we always have major issues. My guess is that the vibrations while towing on those sometimes washboard dirt roads causes mayhem for our lightweight and light duty campers. I've had two different water pumps stop working (the 2nd one miraculously started working again after a while), my main gas line stopped working for a week or so then miraculously returned, the fridge DC wire disconnected and soldered itself elsewhere, the interior 'walls' at the entrance are constantly coming loose, myriad other screws come out and are found all over the camper... it's just not made for the kind of camping we like to do. I still love it, but mitigating this frustrating aspect is a constant part of the experience, unfortunately. If we had paid about 10K less for it, my expectations might be lower.
 

Hilldweller

Super Active Member
Mar 2, 2021
978
Hog Waller, GA
I've essentially come to the conclusion that our Aliners are simply not meant for dirt roads. They are very, very light duty. I say this because during the academic year we camp in state parks in TX, all of which have paved roads leading to them and they are full hookup sites and we never have problems. In the summers we like to camp in National Forest sites in the Rockies, many of them with 5 or so miles of dirt roads for the final stretch, and we always have major issues. My guess is that the vibrations while towing on those sometimes washboard dirt roads causes mayhem for our lightweight and light duty campers. I've had two different water pumps stop working (the 2nd one miraculously started working again after a while), my main gas line stopped working for a week or so then miraculously returned, the fridge DC wire disconnected and soldered itself elsewhere, the interior 'walls' at the entrance are constantly coming loose, myriad other screws come out and are found all over the camper... it's just not made for the kind of camping we like to do. I still love it, but mitigating this frustrating aspect is a constant part of the experience, unfortunately. If we had paid about 10K less for it, my expectations might be lower.
Same story.

The "offroad package" makes it almost suited for on-road use. Almost.
 




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