Door won't be straight no matter how much leveling we do! see pictures

Kampus

Active Member
Jun 16, 2017
210
Slate Belt, Pa
Get a long level or you can buy a long straight edge at Lowe’s in the tool section a straight flat piece of metal and lay on the underside of the frame and see if anything looks bent on the frame, the straight edge ought to touch all locations from one end to the other of the straight edge if nothing on the frame is bent. The frame is the base for the pop up.
This. I would never level my camper based off the tongue...it's a c frame, it's gonna flex. I use a level on the floor in the center of the camper box. When I get level there, everything fits pretty good and the level on my tongue still shows it's off a bit.
 

brettstoner

Active Member
Jun 17, 2014
124
Toledo, OH
Here is how I fixed my door. First set camper up level. I used a laser level to check side to side and front to back. Then have a couple people climb into a bunk to see if the frame/body is flexing. (Most commonly the front bunk flexes down creating a larger opening at the top of the bottom door. If so you need to fix this like other mentioned.) Next open the lower door and again check for level on all planes both open and closed. I found my lower door was not level both open and closed. First I re-screwed it to get it level while closed. Then when I swung it open it was no longer level. So I had to shim the hinge at the bottom to maintain level.

So now that the lower door is good time to start working on the upper door. First thing I noticed when I put my upper door down is that the brackets on each side were not level. So I trimmed them to get them level. Then I removed the roof bracket and once I was satisfied with the roof height and door opening/closing I screwed the top door roof bracket into the roof.

It took me about 2 hours to redo the door but it finally works perfect now. There are just so many things that can make it not work right and after 20 years almost everything is out of level.
 

ben31popup

Take me camping! Annual Average - 28 days
Aug 4, 2012
155
Middle Georgia
It looks to me, like the top is not raising the same amount on both ends. The reason I say this, is the of-kilter part is attached to the top, not the base. Measure the distance between the base of the roof extender to the bottom of the roof at all four corners. If they are not the same (or pretty close to it), that is the problem, not leveling. There are ways to solve that problem, if that is the case. If the roof is extending the same amount at all four corners, try brettstoner's post (above).
 

1380ken

Super Active Member
Nov 7, 2013
2,846
Mass
I fix my door issue by putting a couple of jack stands in different spots. I usually put one in front and one behind the door on the frame. Not sure which one fixes the issue or if I need both. It works, the more jack stands under your frame the better.
 

vdotmatrix

Active Member
Gold Supporting Member
Feb 11, 2013
486
Northern Virginia
Crawl under the nearest corner of your camper and feel the floor and the wood all along that wall and especially the corner(s). Tell us what you find.
 
Jul 20, 2014
13
It appears to me as if the bottom half of the door is not square with itself. First thing I'd do is use a carpenter's square to check that out.

My bottom half was not square with itself (even when new). After several years of trying to "fix" it, or at lease make it work with extra bracing under the front bunk, three years ago I took the bottom half of the door off and rebuilt it square. (I used the existing metal edges.) It all works better now. (Mine is a Starcraft Comet.)
 

Mark60

Active Member
Aug 23, 2020
116
TN
This. I would never level my camper based off the tongue...it's a c frame, it's gonna flex. I use a level on the floor in the center of the camper box. When I get level there, everything fits pretty good and the level on my tongue still shows it's off a bit.
Your not leveling the camper with a straight edge, your only checking to see if the frame is bent.
 

rosieposie7

Member
Jun 11, 2020
31
I too use a long 3 bubble leveler to move around. I always don't have the patience at the campsite to get exactly perfect, but I get close enough. 1.) I make sure it's level by moving the leveler on top of the roof where the door is. 2) put the leveler on the bumper of the camper in the middle) 3.) level at the tongue.
The jacks and stabilizers help to keep level as the beds come out.
 
Jun 24, 2020
16
Central Illinois
There have been a lot of responses, and I haven't read all of them, but here is my suggestion.

1) I added stabilizers to the front also (so now at all 4 corners) and that helped a lot.
2) after you have the door assembled, lower the roof down an inch or so. Many people over extend the roof and this causes the same issue.
3) lastly, I added a strip of wood to the bottom of our top 1/2 of the door on the latch side. This force the door to level better as the roof comes down.
 

J Starsky

Super Active Member
Aug 3, 2017
1,167
East Central MN
You might find this post helpful: https://www.popupportal.com/threads/how-to-fix-this-door.118167/
My post to that thread (OG POST):
My 1984 suffers from this condition. Does your door look "normally" spaced when closed down? Mine does too! I shimmed it, shimmed the door striker plate to meet the door, removed the upper door from the ceiling - all kinds of tricks I tried...until camping last year. I had a beer time epiphany watching my gals move about the camper - they aren't 6 years old anymore and now are mini human sized tweens! D'oh!

So, off to a junkyard local to my campground, bought a $5 spare tire jack to support their bunk weight. Stopped the door from moving, stopped the load droop moving that short wall where the door mounts. There is no floor rot, there isn't anything loose, it just wants to move from flexing all these years. I encourage you to try this out - perhaps not as ghetto as my repair... I have now cut a 2x4 that fits perfect and I'm calling this a "final" repair until problems force my hand.
DSC00711.JPG


DSC00712.JPG


Couldn't hurt to try it out~!
 
Last edited:
Jun 24, 2020
16
Central Illinois
I did something very similar. I actually purchased two pickup truck bed organizer bars (the ratcheting/expanding) type and I just those uumder the ends of the front bunk. They extend to fit any terrain and they fit easily right next to the roof safety supports for storage. I like your idea of using the trailer tongue also, but wanted them to go all the way to ground for additional stability.
 

Dubbya

Wherever you go, there you are...
Aug 2, 2011
6,141
Steinbach, MB
There could be several contributing factors that lead to your door problem.

Is the frame level and are the stabs not bearing too much weight?
  1. 40lbs of weight max per stabilizer. (They're effectively braces, not jacks)
  2. Level with your BAL and the tongue jack.
Is the roof level when raised?
  1. If the roof isn't level (plus or minus 1/4"), it's a safe bet that your door won't fit properly.
Does the frame flex when the roof is raised and bunks are extended?
  1. If the walls are flexing or the rear wall cantilevers when the bunks are extended, it could mean a rotten floor, broken wall members or a cracked frame. You might even see the door open when someone climbs in the bunk.
 

George Dion

New Member
Jan 29, 2020
9
Illinois
We can't seem to get our door to hang and close properly. See pictures. These pictures were taken on a pad that is more uneven than most. But we have the problem even when we are on a relatively level pad.
We are using a BAL leveler and the little orange bubble level shows it is level in both directions.
The top of the door doesn't come down far enough to settle into the grooves and properly attach to the bottom panel. And the bottom panel is clearly very crooked. It gets worse when we lay on the bed at the front of the camper.
ideas?
The frame is bent.
 

brettstoner

Active Member
Jun 17, 2014
124
Toledo, OH
It looks to me, like the top is not raising the same amount on both ends. The reason I say this, is the of-kilter part is attached to the top, not the base. Measure the distance between the base of the roof extender to the bottom of the roof at all four corners. If they are not the same (or pretty close to it), that is the problem, not leveling. There are ways to solve that problem, if that is the case. If the roof is extending the same amount at all four corners, try brettstoner's post (above).
Ahhhh great point! I forgot to mention you need to make sure your roof is level too! If not adjust the posts until they are.
 

Nedley

New Member
Apr 14, 2015
9
We can't seem to get our door to hang and close properly. See pictures. These pictures were taken on a pad that is more uneven than most. But we have the problem even when we are on a relatively level pad.
We are using a BAL leveler and the little orange bubble level shows it is level in both directions.
The top of the door doesn't come down far enough to settle into the grooves and properly attach to the bottom panel. And the bottom panel is clearly very crooked. It gets worse when we lay on the bed at the front of the camper.
ideas?
I don't think your trailer is straight in the middle... Meaning, your tires have to much weight on them, causing the center section of the trailer to buckle up.. I have 4 jacks on my trailer I see you only have the two in the back, plus the tongue... but even with my 4, this happens to me sometimes, .. You really need to get almost all the weight off the tires so your not causing a high spot in the middle of the trailer. You might think a trailer frame is very rigid, but it's really not.. it will flex a whole lot over the full span from the tongue to those back stabilizers. .. I always dropped my rear stablilizers, got the back end pretty high, and then used the tongue jack to bring it back up level. I have had campsites where one (or both) tires were completely off the ground and everything leveled just perfect.
 

Sjm9911

Super Active Member
May 31, 2018
11,499
Nj
I wouldn't do that, thats a sure way to warp the frame. There stabilizers not levelers. So they are ment to just take the rocking motion out of the set up. And not supost to carry the weight of the camper. Unless you have a big 5th wheel with levelers, this is a big no ,no. Read your manual again.

Edited, to reverse wording. Lol. Watching the hocky game.
I don't think your trailer is straight in the middle... Meaning, your tires have to much weight on them, causing the center section of the trailer to buckle up.. I have 4 jacks on my trailer I see you only have the two in the back, plus the tongue... but even with my 4, this happens to me sometimes, .. You really need to get almost all the weight off the tires so your not causing a high spot in the middle of the trailer. You might think a trailer frame is very rigid, but it's really not.. it will flex a whole lot over the full span from the tongue to those back stabilizers. .. I always dropped my rear stablilizers, got the back end pretty high, and then used the tongue jack to bring it back up level. I have had campsites where one (or both) tires were completely off the ground and everything leveled just perfect.
 

Carl Schwarz

New Member
Oct 13, 2020
6
Our door would pop open by itself when people got in both bunks. The frame is slightly bent, and the roof has moved a little due to it opening up whilst being driven (long camplify hire story...). I'd say your frame has bent. Probably don't worry about the frame, and just fix the door.
For me I simply shimmed the latches so it stays shut. Yours is more out of alignment than mine, you may need to shim the hinges.
It's either that or replace whatever is bent
 

swsmith

Member
Dec 15, 2021
49
I had a problem like that, and pushed the lower door up from the bottom and it slid into place. I don't know why. I checked the piano hinge and it seemed tight. Life's mysteries....
 

grrrrraham

Member
Apr 9, 2018
24
We can't seem to get our door to hang and close properly. See pictures. These pictures were taken on a pad that is more uneven than most. But we have the problem even when we are on a relatively level pad.
We are using a BAL leveler and the little orange bubble level shows it is level in both directions.
The top of the door doesn't come down far enough to settle into the grooves and properly attach to the bottom panel. And the bottom panel is clearly very crooked. It gets worse when we lay on the bed at the front of the camper.
ideas?
Honestly it looks like an issue with the door itself. The top half of the door is sagging or otherwise has a bent frame or something. Can you show more detailed pictures of the top half door hinges and frame?
 




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