Ideas and suggestions appreciated

[p]

Just picked up my trailer and noticed the digital read out on the brake controller seems normal. Regular readings. But...when I activate the manual lock on it...nothing happens. The trailer wheels don't stop or even slow down. Ideas? Oh ya..trailer lights work.

 

[NLB]

Time to pull the wheels and drums.

 

[PopUpSteve]

I would start with testing all the connections between the controller and the breaks before pulling the wheels. Could just be some corrosion on a connection.

 

[xxxapache]

You can do a quick check with a magnetic compass. Hold it next to the brake drum and have someone activate the brakes. If the needle moves, you know you have power at the drums.

 

[Dnodoz]

Maybe adjust them first. Jack up the trailer safely like changing a tire. If you manually turn the wheel and don’t feel any metal friction you can adjust the brakes with a screwdriver on the star wheel until they stop and then back off til moving again. It’s not always electrical.

 

[bondebond]

On a 2005 PUP that is new to you, the only way to have any confidence is to do a visual inspection of the drums and shoes. You have no idea how much brake lining is left on the shoes, if there is pitting in the drums, etc. I tend to be serious about the safety mechanisms of things, especially with my family along.

All of the above posts are good things to do. I would do them all.

Personal story: when I got my highwall Fleetwood from a used camper dealership that had a single owner before me, I could tell it was lovingly taken care of. Everything was immaculate, original, taken care of, all documentation present, etc. Among other things, I pulled the brake drums off before going on a first, big trip only to find out that the PO had apparently traveled a lot, or had the brake controller turned up pretty high. There was little lining left on the shoes and it was cracking. I replaced them, adjusted for proper grip and haven't worried about it except to readjust about every two years and do a quick inspection of brakes, axle bearings, seals, etc. A Saturday morning is worth the peace of mind for me.

 

[Anthony Hitchings]

if the digital readout is normal, the electrical is likely ok. IF you observed lack of braking is on both wheels, then they brake shoes need adjusting (at least).

btw - my digital readout was still ok with only one of two ebrake magnets acative - the other one had a broken wire outside the drum. Which is why I recently ran separate ebrake cables from my electrical pbnel to the brake drums. I can do an electrical test on each drum by itself.

 

[p]

Ok...new info. The wire attaching the brakes between the two wheels is ripped apart. I reconnected the broken ends...but the brakes still didn't work. Maybe something got pulled out in the wheels when the wire was pulled apart?

 

[p]

Ok. I reconnected the broken wires that were connecting the brakes between the wheels. Now, when I press the brakes in the van I can hear a humm in one trailer wheel, not both. However, the trailer wheels still spin (ie. The brakes still dont work). I am pondering if I reconnected the broken wires the wrong way. Or...something else.

 

[LilRed]

the brake wires are not polarity sensitive; you can reverse them without impact. reference etrailer guide

 

[Anthony Hitchings]

the enrake magnets are connected in parallel. Polarity is not an issue with these devices.

 

[Sjm9911]

The hum is probably the magnet engaging. So, only on one whell and not the other. Now, you need to pull that one, and see if the pads are ok, and if they are making contact with the drum. So if you have the gain set high, or push the lever on the controller, then someone else spins the wheel. You should feel resistance. If not, you need to ajust the spindle thing untill they just about touch with no power applied. Sometimes the springs in them get rusty, and the mechanism dosen't move.
After that, check the wire for power at the other wheel, the one that dosen't hum. Make sure the conections are good. Then pull that tire, you can hold a wrentch to the magnate to see if its working. Then rebuild/ replace worn parts or ajust. If you dont get power, run a new wire across the axel. If your wire goes through the axel, sometimes the gromet protecting the wire falls out and the metal rubs through the wire causing it to short. Hope I sort of explaned that right.

 

[PopUpSteve]

Did you check the warp-plasma intake manifold?

 

[p]

Amazon link?
And...do you mean the warp core or plasma injector?

 

[PopUpSteve]

NO NO NO, the warp-plasma intake manifold !

 

[p]

Thank you for the clarification.