Need help: 12v Voltage spikes and intermittent lights

[Laplantebd]

I added a maxxair fan to my 1996 Laredo this week. I wired it in to one of the ceiling lights. Right away I get the common problem of it shutting off so I tested voltage. Without any lights on my voltage spikes to 19 volts. With both lights on the voltage stays low enough to not kick the fan off.

Is my Magnetec 6612 supposed to limit voltage or should I add a voltage regulator?

To make things more complicated the last few days my lighting goes on and off as I walk around inside the camper. I checked for loose wires and the plug connection and all seems good. We have yet to spend a night in this camper so I don’t know if it’s a pre existing issue.

Should I just buy a new converter and what would everyone recommend?
thank you.

 

[tombiasi]

I added a maxxair fan to my 1996 Laredo this week. I wired it in to one of the ceiling lights. Right away I get the common problem of it shutting off so I tested voltage. Without any lights on my voltage spikes to 19 volts. With both lights on the voltage stays low enough to not kick the fan off.

Is my Magnetec 6612 supposed to limit voltage or should I add a voltage regulator?

To make things more complicated the last few days my lighting goes on and off as I walk around inside the camper. I checked for loose wires and the plug connection and all seems good. We have yet to spend a night in this camper so I don’t know if it’s a pre existing issue.

Should I just buy a new converter and what would everyone recommend?
thank you.

You should not have 19 VDC. Check the contacts from the converter DC for tightness and that they are clean. It sounds like the converter is not regulating properly.

 

[bupkis]

many a popup have a safety kill switch that is activated by the swing over sink, this depresses the switch to allow 12v to the ceiling. I either put a stack of paper plates on the switch or added weight to the sink (one gallon water) to prevent the switch from on/off. Also loose wires (a plug) that run to the ceiling in a canvas pocket somewhere.

Your voltage seems out o' wack.

https://www.bestconverter.com/

This is a replacement power center (both 120v and 12v).
https://www.bestconverter.com/4135_c_226.html

 

[Anthony Hitchings]

unless solar is defintely not in your future - get a new lithium-compatible converter.

 

[SteveP]

I had a similar problem with my old Elixir. It would go from just barely enough voltage to make the led lights glow to measured 17.5 volts. IMO its not worthwhile to mess with these old converters. I replaced mine with the Progressive Dynamics PD4135. If you go with PD be aware that they will not honor the warranty unless the unit is purchased from an authorized dealer or distributor. No warranty on units from Amazon or eBay.

 

[Anthony Hitchings]

I had a similar problem with my old Elixir. It would go from just barely enough voltage to make the led lights glow to measured 17.5 volts. IMO its not worthwhile to mess with these old converters. I replaced mine with the Progressive Dynamics PD4135. If you go with PD be aware that they will not honor the warranty unless the unit is purchased from an authorized dealer or distributor. No warranty on units from Amazon or eBay.

which makes you wonder - if thats the case - why are they selling to unauthorized dealers or Amazon (Prime)?

 

[SteveP]

which makes you wonder - if thats the case - why are they selling to unauthorized dealers or Amazon (Prime)?

They claim they're pirate units.

 

[Anthony Hitchings]

They claim they're pirate units.

so - came out of the back door from the Chinese factory?

Here is what they say on their web site:
Our product’s are designed, assembled, tested, warranted and serviced in the U.S.A.

So the parts and subassemblies are all from China - and could be fully assembled over there - and then sold here as pirate units (NOT gray market, which is a different thing)!

 

[wcvworg]

We have the same unit! I inherited mine from my folks when they retired and switched to a travel trailer.

I had similar problems trying to run a 12v fan on my OEM converter, even after swapping everything to LEDs. As other have said, the ancient units aren't worth struggling with. I replaced it with a WFCO WF-8740P and splurged on a ParkPower Conversion Kit at the same time (converts the power cable and mouse hole to a marine grade twist lock connection so you can store the cable wherever you want.) It's a million times better and has integrated charging capabilities.

The ParkPower is a cut and dry swap - be sure to follow the directions because getting that connector through the water-tight boot is a bear.

The WFCO install was pretty easy. It's a little taller and a little narrower than the original unit so you have to trim that panel a little and fill the gap with a board to both fill the space and provide somewhere for the mounting screws to purchase. Note that it doesn't come with breakers - you'll need a 30, 20, and two 15s to set up the stock wiring and the charger. I bought one each of these double throws:



The other thing that was super unclear to me at first was wiring the incoming power - you're going to connect the cord to the 30 amp "backwards" as it's coming from the wire and feeding it into the bus bar in the back.

Here's a pic. Note the 20/20 was temporary while I waited for the 30/20 to arrive. Didn't matter in my driveway of a 15 amp extention cord.



Someday I'll get around to prettying up that hole, but it's near impossible to see.

Oh, and you gain a bunch of DC circuits, too. The bottom 3 are battery, charger, and reverse-polarity protection.

And here's the ParkPower setup for fun. Standard L5-30 connections.



-DanG

 

[Laplantebd]

We have the same unit! I inherited mine from my folks when they retired and switched to a travel trailer.

I had similar problems trying to run a 12v fan on my OEM converter, even after swapping everything to LEDs. As other have said, the ancient units aren't worth struggling with. I replaced it with a WFCO WF-8740P and splurged on a ParkPower Conversion Kit at the same time (converts the power cable and mouse hole to a marine grade twist lock connection so you can store the cable wherever you want.) It's a million times better and has integrated charging capabilities.

The ParkPower is a cut and dry swap - be sure to follow the directions because getting that connector through the water-tight boot is a bear.

The WFCO install was pretty easy. It's a little taller and a little narrower than the original unit so you have to trim that panel a little and fill the gap with a board to both fill the space and provide somewhere for the mounting screws to purchase. Note that it doesn't come with breakers - you'll need a 30, 20, and two 15s to set up the stock wiring and the charger. I bought one each of these double throws:



The other thing that was super unclear to me at first was wiring the incoming power - you're going to connect the cord to the 30 amp "backwards" as it's coming from the wire and feeding it into the bus bar in the back.

Here's a pic. Note the 20/20 was temporary while I waited for the 30/20 to arrive. Didn't matter in my driveway of a 15 amp extention cord.

View attachment 86758

Someday I'll get around to prettying up that hole, but it's near impossible to see.

Oh, and you gain a bunch of DC circuits, too. The bottom 3 are battery, charger, and reverse-polarity protection.

And here's the ParkPower setup for fun. Standard L5-30 connections.

View attachment 86759

-DanG

Very cool. Thanks for the help. It’s been a few months and I was actually thinking about the camper this morning. Your post motivated me to order a new converter. Looks like I “need” that park power also!

 

[wcvworg]

PowerPark is 100% optional but I've found it makes life easier. Glad to help