Yeah, that's what the manual now says.
from https://battlebornbatteries.com/wp-...Manual-Edition.PIM_BB10012Rev010_06232022.pdf
from https://battlebornbatteries.com/wp-...Manual-Edition.PIM_BB10012Rev010_06232022.pdf
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WFCO 8735 AD converter-charger using "lead-acid" profile on lithium battery.
- Thread starter Johncells
- Start date
Johncells
Member
Interesting. As mentioned, when I charged my Renogy in "lead-acid" mode, I never reached 100% charge. And as we know, that's because the lead-acid profile doesn't maintain 14.2-14.6 Amps. When I had success with the lithium profile, my Renogy charged from 2% to 100% in about 4+ hours. I was happy with that because it means my four cells got balanced. I see no need to keep it at 100% from now on except to top off occasionally to balance the cells. When the battery is unattended, I'd be comfortable with any charge less than 100%.
rth3775
Member
I think I may go with the WF-8735LiS after reading this... you can manually switch the profiles instead of the auto-detect!
Johncells
Member
That's a good path. I think if I had to do it over again, I would prefer having the direct switch method.
rth3775
Member
Thanks for sharing your experience with it!That's a good path. I think if I had to do it over again, I would prefer having the direct switch method.
How did the swap out go, assuming you did it yourself? From reading the manuals and comparing the 8735P vs 8735AD/8735LiS, it looks like the exact same connections between models so in theory it should a 1-for-1 swap out?
Johncells
Member
The swap went fine. I took my time. I separated all the ground wires, put ring terminals on them and connected them to a ground bus bar mounted within 8-10 inches from the back of the WFCO. I also installed a terminal block and fastened fork terminals to the wires and labeled the connections on the terminal block. (All the wires had been bundled under wire nuts.) Once I did this, removing and replacing the WFCO units was fairly straightforward. It certainly made matching the identical wires a cinch. Best thing—everything worked after I was done. The primary video I used as my initial reference was on this YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxlWjzGLeb8&t=2s&ab_channel=TabTrailerUpgradesandMaintenance
Johncells
Member
Yes, the swap is a "1-to-1" swap—even down to the cabinet hole size and screw holes.The swap went fine. I took my time. I separated all the ground wires, put ring terminals on them and connected them to a ground bus bar mounted within 8-10 inches from the back of the WFCO. I also installed a terminal block and fastened fork terminals to the wires and labeled the connections on the terminal block. (All the wires had been bundled under wire nuts.) Once I did this, removing and replacing the WFCO units was fairly straightforward. It certainly made matching the identical wires a cinch. Best thing—everything worked after I was done. The primary video I used as my initial reference was on this YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxlWjzGLeb8&t=2s&ab_channel=TabTrailerUpgradesandMaintenance
rth3775
Member
Excellent video, thank you... I don't have an access panel overtop of the unit like he does, so getting at the wires thru the mounting hole of the unit itself seems to be one of my biggest challenges since I doubt the manufacturer left a generous amount of slack!!The swap went fine. I took my time. I separated all the ground wires, put ring terminals on them and connected them to a ground bus bar mounted within 8-10 inches from the back of the WFCO. I also installed a terminal block and fastened fork terminals to the wires and labeled the connections on the terminal block. (All the wires had been bundled under wire nuts.) Once I did this, removing and replacing the WFCO units was fairly straightforward. It certainly made matching the identical wires a cinch. Best thing—everything worked after I was done. The primary video I used as my initial reference was on this YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gxlWjzGLeb8&t=2s&ab_channel=TabTrailerUpgradesandMaintenance
Johncells
Member
You're welcome! I had the access panel above. That certainly made it easier. I've seen on other "swap" videos, one for a Progressive Dynamics unit PD-4135K, whereby there was no overhead panel. Here's one example: Meanwhile, good luck if you venture ahead, which of course will make it easier in the future to troubleshoot when you have an electrical problem.Excellent video, thank you... I don't have an access panel overtop of the unit like he does, so getting at the wires thru the mounting hole of the unit itself seems to be one of my biggest challenges since I doubt the manufacturer left a generous amount of slack!!
Johncells
Member
You're welcome! I had the access panel above. That certainly made it easier. I've seen on other "swap" videos, one for a Progressive Dynamics unit PD-4135K, whereby there was no overhead panel. Here's one example: Meanwhile, good luck if you venture ahead, which of course will make it easier in the future to troubleshoot when you have an electrical problem.
In this video example, the Progressive Dynamics model is a PD-4045 unit (45 amps). I kept to a 35 amp model so I would have no wire-size issues.
